tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42665056007523281292024-03-13T10:31:40.521-07:00Travels and BirdsDavid Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.comBlogger306125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-36401395034699905802019-10-26T10:13:00.000-07:002019-10-26T10:13:38.195-07:00Zanzibar - Pongwe Beach<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After breakfast the next morning we walked a few blocks to the van that would take us to Pongwe Beach, our last stop on this Africa trip. We began the 90 minute trip through the outskirts of the city over some rough roads being repaired in preparation for the upcoming rainy season. The roads the rest of the way were in good shape and appeared to have been well made, something not always true in Africa.<br />
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Pongwe Beach Hotel consists of several cabins stretched out along the beach away from the main lodge, restaurant, and bar. The temperature is still high, but we have a nice sea breeze to keep us somewhat cool. The beach is flat and the tide goes out about a mile. The water is cool when the tide is in during the morning hours and bathtub warm in the afternoon after the sun has had time to warm the shallow water.
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We have everything we need here which is fortunate since nothing is within walking distance. We can take a boat ride and go fishing or hire a guide to take us on a tour to a spice farm or a forest where we can see monkeys or even a trip to another island. We were happy to just stay here and enjoy relaxing in the sun and water.
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We are joined at dinner by singers and bush babies. Bush babies are small animals that live in the trees and only come out at night. Cute little things, this one came in part for the bananas guests are encouraged to feed him. Unfortunately for the species they are a popular food item and in great danger of being eliminated.
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Our flight to Dubai left at midnight so we had an evening drive to the airport. We passed several mosques, reminders that this is a Muslim island. Each village we passed included several speed bumps to slow the traffic. Once we reached town, the traffic slowed considerably. Crowds of people were out for an evening stroll, food, and shopping. The many bicycles and scooters zipping along the side of the road made driving even more fun. Fortunately, the roads are plenty wide for cars and trucks.
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The airport is quite small, but security was tight as it must be for an international airport. We passed through two security checks and three passport checks including one where our pictures were taken. Our one worry was that we had been told we could only have one carry-on. Nevertheless, the guard tagged both of our carry-ons and we passed into the waiting room where we had access to a gift shop filled with books, clothing, and souvenirs. After a short time, we walked to our plane and took off for Dubai having ended our sojourn in East Africa.
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-603279551814828342019-10-25T11:52:00.000-07:002019-10-25T11:52:52.952-07:00Zanzibar - Stone Town<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Zanzibar was an independent nation in the early 1960s when most of the African colonies gained their independence. However, its small size and concern over the interest Arab nations had, Zanzibar decided to unite with Tanganyika to form the nation of Tanzania. Originally settled by Arab traders, it became a slave bazaar and spice island. Stone Town is the original city. The central city still has the narrow winding streets one expects in old cities and towns built before the age of cars and their wider street requirements. Since our hotel was in the middle of Stone Town, we had to walk about ten minutes from the car park. Given the heat and humidity, we were thankful that the porters took care of our luggage.<br />
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Emerson Spice Hotel is a great old building with two or three large rooms on each of the first five floors. On the sixth is a rooftop restaurant. Each room has a theme based on an opera or one of the owners favorite actresses including Katherine Hepburn and Dorothy Lamour. Our room, Violetta, is dedicated to the lead character in Verdi’s “La Traviata” based on Alexander Dumas’s “La Dame aus Carmelias.” Decorated in shades of violet and blue it looks like a courtesan’s boudoir. Fortunately, it also has air conditioning and a nice balcony in the shade where I sat to watch the city activity. A couple of street vendors compete with the shops. Carts, motorcycles, and pedestrians keep up a constant motion so there is always something to look at.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street Scenes</td></tr>
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We had not arrived until 3:00 so we showered and rested until time for a G&T at the rooftop bar. Mango Travel already made a reservation for our dinner so we did not have to think about what to do. The five course meal was headlined by Kingfish in coconut sauce and accompanied by a fine South African wine. Everything was perfectly cooked and described in detail by our waiter. The cool breeze as the sun disappeared over the horizon made for a perfect ending to the day
The next morning began with breakfast atop the hotel. A breeze and canopies kept the temperature down so we could enjoy the breakfast of fruit and eggs cooked to our specifications. Following the meal we made our way to the lobby where we meet Joseph, our guide for the tour of the city. We began with a walk through the market, similar to other markets we have seen although it did have a much stronger emphasis on spices.<br />
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From the market it is just a short walk to the slave market and museum. Like other places where slavery was a major part of the past, Zanzibar has taken several steps to make sure that this dark blot on its past is not forgotten. The museum is filled with panels of text and pictures that bring the issue of slavery up to the present. Today, Zanzibar is looking at the idea the marriage sometimes can be a form of slavery when a man divorces one wife so he may marry another. The ugliest part of the museum is the downstairs pair of rooms where slaves awaited shipment. The rooms were too low for standing tall and too small for the numbers that were kept there.
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Upon leaving the museum we crossed the plaza to see the sculpture of chained slaves awaiting shipment. Then we entered the Anglican cathedral where we enjoyed a short rest as we admired the furnishings including a cross made from the tree in Zambia under which David Livingston’s heart is buried. The rest of his body is in England. Livingston is much admired in Africa for his anti-slavery work.
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Our next stop across town was the Africa House built by the British as a place where they could enjoy a drink and fine food overlooking the water. We took the elevator to enjoy the view. In retrospect we should have stopped for a drink and a real rest as the day was getting hotter and we were getting more tired. At least we made a stop to get some cold water and then a stop in Memories, a souvenir store where we did buy a couple of souvenirs before heading out again.
Joseph then led us past the Old Fort, the Palace Museum, and the House of Wonders. The House of Wonders was closed for repairs. The House of Wonders is so-called because it was the first in East Africa to have electricity and an elevator. We chose to merely look at the others from the outside as it was now near 1:00 and we were totally sapped by the heat and humidity.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea shells and coral are used in the mortar</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The British Club</td></tr>
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Upon returning to the hotel, we learned that Mango Safaris (our marvelous travel agent) was providing us with dinner at Hurumzi, sister hotel to Emerson Spice. We needed a guide to lead us there that evening. While only a couple of blocks away, it required six turns as we walked through the narrow streets. Four flights of stairs took us to their rooftop restaurant where we were treated to another fun dinner in the style of a typical Zanzibarian wedding. Each course we served family style accompanied by music and dancing. As the previous evening, we thoroughly enjoyed eating in the cool of the rooftop as we enjoyed the setting sun and accompanying entertainment.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Being greeted for dinner</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stairway to the rooftop</td></tr>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-45418753774512148362019-10-24T15:45:00.000-07:002019-10-24T15:45:00.647-07:00Leaving for Zanzibar<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kitela Lodge</td></tr>
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Our flight the next day was not until noon, so Felix stopped to show us a piece of property he has purchased where he plans to build a B&B as he earns the money. He has the land planted in corn to bring in some income and has already purchased a load or bricks to begin construction. He says it will be more rustic than Kitela, but still will offer a nice place to say while visiting Lake Manyara and Ngorongoro.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Felix's Corn Field</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Felix's Bricks</td></tr>
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We also stopped at a Tanzanite showroom. They had a Tanzanite mining display and lots of jewelry for sale. This fancy place also had every imaginable kind of Tanzanian arts and crafts for sale. We spent about 45 minutes to see it all. We made no purchases before we left for the airport.
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Security and luggage checks on this trip have been interesting. We had been warned about too much weight and that the weight total would include ALL of our carry-on luggage including cameras and lenses. Jim was so concerned he left his long lens and CPAP machine home rather than be overweight. But no one weighed any of our carry-ons. They seemed totally uninterested in that. In fact, in a couple of the airports, they did not even have a scale. The only time our bags were really weighed with a purpose was when we got on the jet leaving the country from Zanzibar. There we were told we could only have one carry-on, but the guard put stickers on both of them anyway. No problem.<br />
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Security was equally hit and miss. Two of the airports were really nothing more than air strips so there could be no security checks there. Of course, these were small airplanes taking us only to another small airport, so security wasn’t really an issue. When we flew out of Nairobi to Ol Pejeta, I wore my metal leg brace because I was concerned about the weight issue. When I triggered the x-ray machine, I offered to show them the brace as I had in Portland. The guard said, “No problem. I trust you.”
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Our flight from Manyara to Arusha where we changed planes for Zanzibar was the bumpiest yet. The pilot never found any calm air. Upon our arrival at Arusha, we identified our luggage, took a quick bathroom break and climbed on the plane for Zanzibar, about an hour away. We passed Kilimanjaro, but only had a quick view of the peak above the clouds.
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-57890611334925467172019-10-23T08:22:00.000-07:002019-10-23T08:22:18.748-07:00Lake Manyara National Park<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Our scheduled plan had been to visit Ngorongoro on our travel day leaving us a full day for the village tour and another day for our trip to Manyara NP where we might see tree-climbing lions. Because we chose to use our travel day just for travel, we had to cram Manyara into the afternoon after our village tour. While the tour was special and worth every minute it was a long, hot four hours. Fortunately, Manyara is only about one half hour away from Mto ba Mba. At the conclusion of our village tour, we headed there. We lunched at a lovely shaded picnic area next to the entrance kiosk. As usual, the lunch was more than we needed so we shared leftovers with an appreciated park staff.<br />
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Our first animals in the park was a congress of baboons including a few youngsters. We drove slowly through them getting some good views of parents and young children. We also saw a group of three elephants in the brush so we did not get such good views of them. Later we would see some cape buffalo and reedbuck, but no lions – trees or not.
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About 15 after seeing the elephants we emerged from the forest onto a marshy plain littered with birds. Large flocks of Yellow-billed Storks, Flamingoes, Egyptian Geese, and Cattle Egrets were the vast majority of our sightings. We also saw quite a few African Jacana (the Jesus bird that walks on water or seems to as it runs across the lily pads) and Squacco Heron. The only lifer today was an African Hawk Eagle. After spending about an hour meandering across the plain, we again entered the woods where we saw another congress of baboons and a pair of Southern Ground Hornbills as we made our way out of the park back to the Lodge.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ruff?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2Pg0Fvcz8t4/XVxpYNsj5CI/AAAAAAAATMQ/8TtpUMh0rAkGKHFM6AtY05KYc8hEWDsgwCLcBGAs/s1600/Manyara-34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2Pg0Fvcz8t4/XVxpYNsj5CI/AAAAAAAATMQ/8TtpUMh0rAkGKHFM6AtY05KYc8hEWDsgwCLcBGAs/s320/Manyara-34.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three-banded Plover</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow-billed Storks</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">African Jacana</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Squacco Heron</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MKLxrt1NcGY/XVxpcT9NEfI/AAAAAAAATMk/dZpQcl1KNWIlGA-Kg4DBmLagyyeT5wUtQCLcBGAs/s1600/Manyara-39.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MKLxrt1NcGY/XVxpcT9NEfI/AAAAAAAATMk/dZpQcl1KNWIlGA-Kg4DBmLagyyeT5wUtQCLcBGAs/s320/Manyara-39.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow-billed Storks</td></tr>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-45310641440771831352019-10-18T10:27:00.000-07:002019-10-18T10:27:41.460-07:00Mto ba Mba Village Tour<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xi94eMsiTwA/XVxl2j_1pTI/AAAAAAAATJk/TmRburefWMwFxVK_J1CVjOlhlyBMw6NhgCLcBGAs/s1600/Village-25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xi94eMsiTwA/XVxl2j_1pTI/AAAAAAAATJk/TmRburefWMwFxVK_J1CVjOlhlyBMw6NhgCLcBGAs/s320/Village-25.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fresh water spigot for the neighborhood</td></tr>
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The next day began with a tour of Mto ba Mba (Mosquito River) village just down the hill from the Lodge. We weren’t sure what to expect from another tour, and this was one of the best. We learned more about life in Tanzania than any of us expected. We began at the tour office where the guide told us about the more than 120 tribes that make up this village. (Village is really a misnomer as the total population is over 20,000 and growing.) The tribes come from all over Tanzania and even from neighboring countries as people have left to escape the violence that at times seems endemic to Africa. Today, the villagers are more apt to marry someone from a tribe not their own.<br />
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Tanzania has had a peaceful existence since independence. Julius Nyerere, the first president, emphasized the need for Africans to learn to live together which meant thinking of themselves as Tanzanians, more than members of their particular tribe. Unfortunately, most African countries have not been able to do this leading to periodic violent outbreaks and one tribe rebels against the dominance of another.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Apartments under construction</td></tr>
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For me, this lesson was first presented when visiting a social studies class in Ghana in 1998. As the students learned about the different religions followed within the country, they were told the reason they needed to learn this was so they would understand the beliefs of the others who were living in the same country. The educators saw this as part of what they needed to do as educators and the text books supported these ideas.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Housing develops as more money is available</td></tr>
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Kenya seems to have finally learned the lesson, but still faces some residual intertribal animosity from previous times. Other nations in the area are still a long way from such understanding.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rice kernals</td></tr>
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During the tour our guide Amon took us from one tribe to another highlighting what each contributed to the culture of the village. But first we visited the rice fields. These small fields are all worked without machinery. Some of the fields were surrounded with flags to scare off the birds. They help but are not totally successful. A few of the fields had a rope fence that could be shaken to scare off the birds. They work better, but require human effort.<br />
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From there we visited a carving studio of the Makonda tribe from Mozambique. They came here to escape the violence of the Mozambique Civil War. The men do the carving while the women weave and make pottery. The showpiece here was a five-foot carving with 120 different human beings representing each of the village tribes. We did not ask a price on this item, but I saw a larger one later with a $20,000 price tag. The skill to produce a work like this is incredible. We purchased some wall hangings made by the women. They use different colored banana leaves from the more than 30 species of banana to create pictures of different African scenes. Shellac covers the completed works.<br />
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While walking to our next stop, Amon talked about house construction. Basic starter houses are made of mud-covered sticks. They are not built for permanence. As they earn more money, they will build a house using cheap bricks on a foundation. As more money is earned, they will build a permanent home out of long-lasting bricks. These brick homes require skilled labor. Families will buy bricks as they can afford them and stockpile them until they have enough to build their house. Often, they will build the foundation a year or two before they can afford the bricks and skilled labor to finish the job.
Amon also showed us an apartment building. Several apartments surrounded a courtyard with the water spigot. One of the apartments was used for cooking. The latrine was separate.
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We stopped for some banana beer at an outdoor covered bar made by the Chagra tribe from the foothills of Kilimanjaro. Ground millet is fermented with bananas to create this brew. Served in a small pail, we had to blow away the bubbly goop on top to get at the beer. Jim and I enjoyed it. Marcia and Linda found it too bitter for their taste.
The painting studio included people from several tribes. It is a studio in that those who come are trained in the painting techniques. Some of the work is done with a small spade. Others are completed using a more familiar brush. These paintings were the same as we had seen where we stopped for lunch on our trip from Ndutu to Kitela.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making charcoal</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YaHaVr95x6c/XVxmHhzYhLI/AAAAAAAATK8/Ogw7SMTlWHUTQtqFO08vjjWoiyd_R3ASQCLcBGAs/s1600/Village-46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YaHaVr95x6c/XVxmHhzYhLI/AAAAAAAATK8/Ogw7SMTlWHUTQtqFO08vjjWoiyd_R3ASQCLcBGAs/s320/Village-46.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fish Farm</td></tr>
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As we left the village we saw some goats and some cows raised in their small pens. We also passed a tilapia and catfish pond. No fish were visible through the green algae.<br />
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Before returning to the office and our vehicle we walked through the market. The only thing not available at this market were large appliances and vehicles. For those items villagers much travel to Arusha. Every kind of fruit and vegetable was available along with a wide variety of spices. Among the craft we saw several sewing shops where repairs could be made or villagers could purchase cloth and have it made into clothing.<br />
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David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-36411538539062244542019-10-14T17:59:00.000-07:002019-10-14T17:59:46.843-07:00Ngorongoro<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We left the next morning at 5:30 to maximize our time in the crater. We had to stop at the entrance booth to validate our entrance permit. Within just a few hundred yards of the entrance we saw a small herd of elephants in the woods, a young leopard come out of the forest and cross the road behind us and a few buffalo crossed the road in front of us. To get into the crater we had to drive down a series of switchbacks. The sides of the crater are steep enough to stop the giraffes from entering, but all the other animals are able to negotiate the terrain. Many of them will spend their entire lives within the crater. At 21 kilometers in diameter there is plenty of room for seven large herds of zebras, gazelles, buffalo, and wildebeests. Others will come and go depending on the weather.
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Our good viewing began as we completed our descent into the crater we passed a pair of Secretarybirds in a nest atop a tree. Over the course of the day we would see a number of Golden Jackals, an animal we had not seen before. We also saw at least a dozen Kori Bustards, including one male displaying for no apparent reason as there were no females within view.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Displaying Kori Bustard</td></tr>
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Counting the leopard we saw at the entrance gate, we saw all of the Big Five. The views of the rhinoceros were quite distant, but we did get to see several. Lions, cape buffalo, and elephants were all within a few feet of our Land Rover. We also saw a nice flock of flamingos from a distance along with one of the jackals who seemed to be trying to bluff his way close enough to grab one for lunch. During the 15 minutes we watched he was not successful.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sacred Ibis</td></tr>
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We had an interesting encounter with a pride of female lions. Seeing cars heading in one direction, we followed and arrived where the lionesses we resting along the side of the road. Within minutes we were joined by so many other vehicles there was no room to pass. The felines were pretty oblivious to the chaos around them. When they decided to move, they walked across the road and in between the vehicles disappearing from our view as they did so. We heard a girlish scream which led us to think that one of the other tourists had reached out to try to pet one as she walked by. When we left we had to drive off the road to pass, something we aren’t supposed to do. It was frustrating though to see that several of the vehicles had even parked off the road. That diminishes the experience for all of us including the animals.<br />
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At the hippo pond we saw ten hippos along with several birds including five we had not seen yet on this trip. While we watched we saw a couple of fights as the hippos bothered each other under the water. A couple of them showed us a new behavior as the rolled over in the water.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Bishop</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-woS_uMICGGk/XVxiUdhtAfI/AAAAAAAATII/DMDwSUaaH_8sXshF1jnGyXvMxz8-_RWMQCLcBGAs/s1600/Ngorongoro-38.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-woS_uMICGGk/XVxiUdhtAfI/AAAAAAAATII/DMDwSUaaH_8sXshF1jnGyXvMxz8-_RWMQCLcBGAs/s320/Ngorongoro-38.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spoonbill</td></tr>
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The authority in charge of the park tries to control the number of visitors by raising prices, an interesting choice. They have decided to leave the roads unpaved to maintain the naturalness of the park. They have bricked the exit road for safety reasons as the clay base gets very slick in the rain. Meals are well-regulated. They must be eaten in designated areas, each of which has a washroom with an attendant. We visited three of them, one for breakfast, one for a potty stop, and the last for lunch before heading up the hill and back to the Lodge. We arrived about 3:00 giving us plenty of time for a shower and a nap before happy hour.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tawny Eagle at Breakfast</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fp_W5Md7VN4/XVxiQl2_AII/AAAAAAAATH4/OlH7FDwAIwItNy3EplQzWGP6ktqz4Fh0ACLcBGAs/s1600/Ngorongoro-33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Fp_W5Md7VN4/XVxiQl2_AII/AAAAAAAATH4/OlH7FDwAIwItNy3EplQzWGP6ktqz4Fh0ACLcBGAs/s320/Ngorongoro-33.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grey Crested-Crane Family</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eland</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Abdim's Stork</td></tr>
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Ngorongoro should be on everyone’s bucket list who travels to East Africa. While it is huge for an intact crater, it is small enough to easily see in one day. By keeping all the vehicles on the roads, viewing is generally good and seldom will there be a crowd of vehicles. The only time we were with more than three others was at that lion viewing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Singing Lark</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fighting Gazelles</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interesting tree at our lunch spot</td></tr>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-21068530884319318132019-10-13T19:28:00.000-07:002019-10-13T19:28:33.491-07:00Travel Day<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martial Eagle</td></tr>
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Since we were going on a long drive today and not doing a game drive per se, we didn’t leave until 9:00. We did see some interesting birds and animals as we left the Ndutu area, particularly some great views of a Martial Eagle. We also saw a large herd of about 20 eland. Previously we had not seen more than two or three gathered together. Later after we had entered Masai country, we passed through another large herd of wildebeest, this one probably 2-3 thousand in number. Nearby we passes a herd of zebra nearly equal in size.<br />
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The lush green plains we were passing through were bordered by a valley and groups of houses here and there. As we passed into a hilly forested area, we saw more houses and smaller open areas where the Masai kept their herds of goats, sheep, and cattle. While most of the houses were of a traditional style we did see several frame-built homes and many of both styles with solar panels and television dishes. Modern amenities are not lacking.
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We made one stop near a village to take a close look at a chameleon. As we were taking pictures a few children showed up. Marcia started to ask if she could take their pictures, but Felix quickly squashed that idea. He explained that the ensuing negotiation would not have a happy ending unless we were prepared to pay the children well for the opportunity to take the picture.
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We continued to climb until we reached the overlook for Ngorongoro Crater National Park. From the viewpoint we could see most of the crater we would be visiting the next day. Ngorongoro is the world’s largest extent crater. As such it is filled with all the different animals of this part of Africa with the exception of giraffes who find the effort to climb down into the crater too dangerous.
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We soon passed out through the park entrance and onto a paved road with nice wide shoulders to accommodate the many three-wheeled motorcycles used to transport goods through the area. Along the way we passed the usual collection of roadside shops, bars, and cafes we have seen all over Kenya and Tanzania and parts of South Africa.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roll up your windows</td></tr>
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We did stop at one tourist shop. We passed several of these tourist shops. They advertised their wares with a wall of paintings facing the road. The one we stopped at included toilets and a picnic area where we ate lunch before wandering through the shop filled with more souvenirs for us tourists. We passed on the statues, carvings, and paintings, but did purchase a couple of Christmas ornaments and wall hangings.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Probably a new hotel?</td></tr>
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Shortly thereafter, we arrived at Kitela Lodge where we would be the next three nights. Kitela is a fancy resort in beautiful hillside setting. After settling into our cabin and a shower, we walked back up to the main lodge for a gin and tonic where we could enjoy the view over the hillside. It is a great place to relax after a long drive, but we are much closer to town than to any wilderness area. It will be a couple of hours tomorrow to get into the crater. The advantage is that we are also a couple of hours from Lake Manyara National Park where we might actually see the tree-climbing lions.
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-31781626647815630202019-10-10T09:18:00.000-07:002019-10-10T09:18:56.595-07:00Ndutu - More Vultures and Wildebeest<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The next day we had both a morning and an evening drive. In the early morning we watched a Maribou Stork trying to eat a turtle in a mirror-like pond. He would drop it on a rock hoping to break the shell. It looked like he was also picking what meat he could out of the let holes, so I doubt the turtle survived.<br />
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A short time later, we came upon a flock of over 100 vultures working on a dead wildebeest. It was fresh so probably not a kill, but a natural death. We spent half an hour watching them vultures fight over the kill even as new arrivals flew in to join the fun. As we continued to drive around in the morning, we found some more flamingoes, a few hippos, several giraffes, pairs of steinboks and dikdik, along with several gazelles and impalas.
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In the evening we found some more lions and spent some time hoping to see them attack the passing line of wildebeests. Fortunately for the wildebeest, they were headed in a different direction. While waiting for that to happen we watched several male dung beetles building up their balls of dung before rolling them off in hopes of attracting a female. At least one was successful. We watched as he rolled the ball away with his female hanging on. They were searching for some soft earth where they would bury the ball and the eggs could safely hatch. We got so involved in watching that we neglected to take any pictures. It would have made for a fascinating video. Sorry.<br />
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-50829592365896625732019-10-08T18:30:00.000-07:002019-10-08T18:30:34.956-07:00Ndutu - Wildebeest Migration<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This time we would not be interrupted. After about an hour across a dry, treeless plain, we dropped down into a shallow valley where we saw a couple thousand wildebeest. Our immediate disappointment was soon allayed as we approached a much larger herd. Here we were in the midst of several hundred thousand of the animals. They were joined by about 100 egrets and several hundred zebras. We found a shady spot somewhat out of the dust and wind where we had lunch while watching the animals mill around the small lake. Most interesting was the long line of the wildebeests coming over the hill and through the lake to join the rest of the herd. In a few days, these animals would be off to the Masai Mara where the water would be more plentiful and the grass would be greener.
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On the long, slow drive back we came upon a family of lions resting in the shade of a tree. Two sisters and their six month-old kits were enjoying the shade. We also saw a family of hyenas. One of them was playing in the water. Felix said that is a rare behavior. We arrived back at camp about 3:30, plenty of time for a shower and a nap before dinner. I spent part of that time watching the love birds frolic in the nearby trees and a couple of weavers building nests.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Love Birds</td></tr>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-76106306357251204322019-10-07T09:18:00.000-07:002019-10-07T09:18:38.485-07:00Ndutu - Looking for Wildebeest<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LnNMRl_Jg1M/XVm1wKPf0SI/AAAAAAAATAc/EVFsEXG5VGgDg_BHi_B5pABIaofsoJ1LgCLcBGAs/s1600/Ndutu-27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1216" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LnNMRl_Jg1M/XVm1wKPf0SI/AAAAAAAATAc/EVFsEXG5VGgDg_BHi_B5pABIaofsoJ1LgCLcBGAs/s320/Ndutu-27.jpg" width="243" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Verreaux's Eagle-owl</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Stork</td></tr>
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The next day, we headed out for a full day drive taking us to the main herd of wildebeest. Instead of heading directly to their staging area, we made a couple of stops. First, we stopped by one of the lakes for a look at a large flock of flamingos. The muddy beach meant we could only look for a distance, but we were able to see a few hundred of these striking pink birds. Not the thousands we hoped for, but still a fun view.</div>
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A bit later we happened on a lion kill. Two females were still working on the dead wildebeest, but they soon had their fill and took off leaving the vultures. This time a couple of jackals were lurking. Eventually, one of them found an opening to sneak in and take off with a chunk. A few minutes later, was saw a couple of small hooded vultures finally make their way into the melee. Their size precludes them from being aggressive at any feeding site, but usually there will be enough meat for them to get some for themselves.<br />
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We made one more stop at a waterhole with a few shorebirds before heading again for wildebeest valley.<br />
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This time we were interrupted by a pair of cheetahs stalking another long line of wildebeest. Felix got us into a good spot where we patiently watched the two boys sneak their way closer and closer to the wildebeest. Several times it looked like a young one was isolated enough for them to attack, but they still waited and waited. Finally, as the end of the line approached, one of the young ones ventured way off to the side. In spite of Mom’s efforts to keep the child in line, this willful young one refused to return to the safety of the mass. In the blink of an eye, he paid the price. Mom made an attempt to save him, but was quickly chased off by one of the cheetahs. The whole thing happened so quickly, I almost completely missed the picture.
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The most amazing part of watching the kill was our neighbor Land Rovers. While we were waiting, we had been joined by at least 20 other vehicles. We were all lined up waiting for the action. As soon as the kill was competed, the race was on. We weren’t part of the race, but most of the others sped over to watch as the cheetahs took their fill. We drove up to take a look, but the grass was really too high to see much so we took off once again for wildebeest valley.
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David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-30031493205484849252019-10-03T12:20:00.001-07:002019-10-03T12:20:34.271-07:00Ndutu - First Day<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Felix, our guide for the next week, met us and we waited to be joined by our friends, Jim and Marcia Rinta who would be with us for the rest of our time in Africa. A short five minute drive took us to Ndutu camp in the Serengeti, where we would spend the next three nights. Ndutu is more of a hotel than most of the camps we have been to. With 30 cabins, there would be no meals with camp managers or other guests. Felix did take most of his meals with us, but he stayed in a special part of the camp set aside for guides. We definitely prefer the small camps.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pygmy Falcon</td></tr>
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The Serengeti and the Masai Mara are each part of the same international park, but they are very different in character. The Masai Mara was lush and green. While we did travel on some dirt tracks, we were also able to drive over the grass to get to some of the best viewing areas. In the Serengeti it was so dry that we spent all of our time driving on dirt enjoying a good deal of dust. Our drinking water is even trucked in here. Even so, the viewing was excellent and Felix did a great job of getting us to the good spots.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bat-eared Fox Family</td></tr>
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We had two hopes for our time here in the Serengeti. First, our big hope was to see some of the great wildebeest migration. Second, we hoped to see one of the large flocks of flamingoes that congregate here this time of year. Felix took us almost directly to see the beginnings of the migration. After a short drive, we could see a long line of several hundred wildebeest slowly walking across the dusty savannah. We couldn’t see the end of the line. Most were adults. Felix suggested that they were probably males leading the way for the rest of the herd. He said that the few youngsters we saw had probably lost their mothers. Otherwise they would not be among the first to leave for the Masai Mara.<br />
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On the drive back we saw a group of about 15 vultures and a few Maribou Storks working on a hyena corpse. It’s fun to watch the interaction of the birds. The most aggressive vultures spread their wings to ward off those who are less deserving. Their featherless heads and necks are quickly covered with blood. Meanwhile, storks hang back watching for any opportunity to sneak in, but mostly they patiently wait their turn.
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As we approached camp, Felix took us by a small green hill. Sitting at the base was a serval, one of Africa’s smaller cats and one that we had not seen before in the wild. This cat was just enjoying resting in evening sun.
At dinner we had another surprise visitor. Four genets live in the neighborhood and every evening one or more will make their way onto the rafters above the dining room. They are attracted by food left out specifically for them. Feeding the wild animals is strictly prohibited.
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-45810969797929589762019-10-02T11:24:00.000-07:002019-10-02T11:24:16.341-07:00Border Crossing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We had an easy flight from the small airstrip to the Kenya-Tanzania border. Then things got interesting. After landing, we got on a bus for a 30-minute ride to the actual border. We drove into a fenced no-man’s-land where we left that bus under the care of our ‘handler.’ After entering the building, we handed our passports to Kenyan border control where they were carefully scrutinized and stamped before being returned to us. Then our ‘handler’ had us give our passports to him along with the $100 for the visas necessary for passing into Tanzania. We walked through the building where we waited for the return of our passports. Our ‘handler’ reappeared and handed each of us our passports carefully pointing out the stamp showing our visa to assure us that we had not been swindled in the process. Another bus took us to the Tanzanian airport where we boarded our plane for Ndutu, our next safari camp.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the airport</td></tr>
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A couple of pictures from our flight showing the variety of landscape.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Rintas join us in Ndutu on the Serengeti</td></tr>
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The pictures show roadside city life in this part of Africa.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Partially constructed buildings are common.<br />
Additions are added as money is available.</td></tr>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-57678249849241342112019-09-30T15:27:00.000-07:002019-09-30T15:27:00.280-07:00Kicheche - Crossing the Mara<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The next morning was probably our best on the trip. We left before daylight in hopes of seeing another nightjar or two. We did see one, but weren’t able to identify it as it flew away. A few minutes later we saw five jackals and seven hyenas. Thinking we must be near a kill, we were rewarded with a pair of lions walking by and another eating a recently killed zebra. We followed the couple as they headed for a waterhole and managed some great pictures of them drinking in the beautiful morning sun.
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We drove around for a while looking for that elusive leopard without success. Headed for a breakfast spot on the Mara River, we did pass a large tree with four big birds: a Yellow-Billed stork, a Grey Heron, a Black-headed Heron, and a Maribou Stork. A bit later we saw our first Go-away Bird on this trip. They got their name because they warn others that a predator is nearby.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wildebeest</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maribou Stork</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-bellied Go-Away Bird</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tawny Eagle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gazelles</td></tr>
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At the river, we had a special treat watching a tower of about 25 giraffes trying to cross the Mara. A few of them had walked down the slope to the river, but there they stopped. The leader carefully placed one foot in front of another tentatively finding safe footing before moving forward. Taking those last few steps took half an hour, but finally they began to actually cross the river followed by the zeal of zebra traveling with them. A few still refused to cross. Probably they would cross later, but we had other places to be.<br />
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The land around the Mara is beautiful open savannah covered by animals with trees scattered across the plains.
Recent rain has greened up the Masai Mara savannah beautifully. With trees scattered across the plain, we enjoyed just traveling across. When we got the radio call that a leopard had been spotted we were able to enjoy a “Ferrari Safari” for the next 20 minutes across this savannah. We arrived to find the leopard lying in a small copse of trees. He soon got up from his rest, walked to another copse through the sunlight where we could get some nice pictures before almost literally disappearing as he climbed into one of the trees. It was a short but rather exciting viewing before we headed back to camp and lunch.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice how well hidden the leopard is</td></tr>
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At lunch we were joined by some new guests. A woman from Atlanta was visiting her son who runs a fish farm on Lake Victoria. As a white American he was able to start the farm because he had plenty of money to invest and a desire to try a new method of fish farming. He works hard to make himself and his business an important part of the community by supporting local projects, employing fishermen no longer able to make a living on the depleted lake, and making sure people know how much he is spending for water and other supplies.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few wildebeest who did not make the migration to the Serengeti</td></tr>
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He is able to sell only in part of Kenya. The fish he was selling near Nairobi are now locked out by Chinese fish. Kenya tried stopping the import of Chinese fish to protect the local suppliers. In response, China cut off their funding for a railroad Kenya is building from Mombasa on the coast to Nairobi and beyond. He is also unable to sell in Tanzania where the Chinese have even more control. Tony, the camp manager, added that he thinks Kenya is doing well by weaning itself from China and eliminating corruption.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Surprising that he is still alive with his birth defect.<br />
Notice the growth on the front legs</td></tr>
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Tony is worried about the future of the conservancies. As they come up for renewal, younger Masai are looking to increase the fees. Tony is concerned that this will raise prices for tourists enough that attracting them will be more difficult even with the appeal of the Masai Mara and the wildebeest migration. This will be interesting to watch over the next few years as the renewals come up.
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-59182034465225216312019-09-20T23:48:00.000-07:002019-09-20T23:48:56.401-07:00Kicheche - More pictures<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The next morning provided some more great pictures. Tawny Eagles, Vultures, and an Eagle Owl began the day. After a short drive from the birds, we found four lions. We spent about 20 minutes watching the two cubs climbing up a rock face. A short time later we found a couple of male lions feasting on a warthog and the jackal who managed to steal a piece for himself. Across the field we found a couple of cheetahs lazing about. They had eaten recently and had no interest in doing much at all. One of the pair did make sure to be atop the hillock where he could survey his world.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W8g12Umks9g/XViIucyCJDI/AAAAAAAAS38/jOKdbuT_82QL02EiQrd-rHf_LowL79dSQCLcBGAs/s1600/Kicheche-41.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W8g12Umks9g/XViIucyCJDI/AAAAAAAAS38/jOKdbuT_82QL02EiQrd-rHf_LowL79dSQCLcBGAs/s320/Kicheche-41.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pied Kingfisher</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1100" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tDzmn9KNQ6g/XViIwCdfRyI/AAAAAAAAS4E/cKtdyO8G0vsWo66NHSFD-uGKINzHRxS9gCLcBGAs/s320/Kicheche-42.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="219" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Verreaux's Eagle-owl</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W_9Qo0qDrjs/XViIwWJp6gI/AAAAAAAAS4I/ynIbIARJFQUsNtowdiKOk7lAnZWkVoxXgCLcBGAs/s1600/Kicheche-44.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W_9Qo0qDrjs/XViIwWJp6gI/AAAAAAAAS4I/ynIbIARJFQUsNtowdiKOk7lAnZWkVoxXgCLcBGAs/s320/Kicheche-44.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">White-bellied Bustard</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Striped Mongoose</td></tr>
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Our next stop for breakfast overlooking a hole in the Mara River. There wasn’t much action here, but after eating we moved a short distance downstream where we found about 30 hippos. On our way back to camp we hoped to find a leopard, but were foiled again.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tawny Eagle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Mara River</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-headed Vulture</td></tr>
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Our evening drive provided more special sights including a lion in a tree and a displaying Grey Crowned-Crane. Lions don’t normally spend time in trees except around Lake Manyara in Tanzania. Our guide said this young male was probably hiding from an older male. After another beautiful sunset for our sundowner, we headed back to camp. Along the way we flushed a nightjar, one of the rarely seen birds of this area because they only come out at night.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-backed Jackal</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gazelle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Find the lion in the tree</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Time for a rest</td></tr>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-62283965428218019462019-09-08T06:12:00.000-07:002019-09-08T06:12:28.328-07:00Kicheche in the Masai Mara<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We had a bumpy but interesting plane ride as we watched the landscape change from dry reserves to farmland to the open green of the Masai Mara. They had some rain here.
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Upon landing, we met our guide who put us in a land rover for the drive to camp. During the half hour drive we passed several animals, the cutest of which was a mob of mongoose. We also saw hyena, elephants, warthogs, and topi (called tessabe in Southern Africa). Upon arrival, we were escorted to our tent overlooking the river and fields. Trees next to the tent promised a good selection of small birds.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's nice to see a green landscape</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spotted Hyena</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Striped Mongoose</td></tr>
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As at Ol Pejeta, this is a real tent placed on a cement slab. We only found one electric outlet, but everything else was perfect. Actually, everything is tented here and we would eat all of our meals under the stars.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P8Z6rsO0HZU/XVhthFPlkeI/AAAAAAAAS1U/UHouKikYhQ0NY3GJn6UcPwQYSrhj8ImygCLcBGAs/s1600/Kicheche-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P8Z6rsO0HZU/XVhthFPlkeI/AAAAAAAAS1U/UHouKikYhQ0NY3GJn6UcPwQYSrhj8ImygCLcBGAs/s320/Kicheche-8.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our home for the next three nights</td></tr>
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Our first drive just provided more than a taste of what was to come at this beautiful camp in the Masai Mara. The Masia Mara is the Kenyan portion of Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park. On that first drive we had our very best views of Lilac-breasted Rollers, Secretary birds, and Black-shouldered Kites. It helps that our guide, Richard, is also a birder and photographer. We found a mother cheetah with her three cubs and finished the evening with a G & T while watching a lioness and her two cubs. She had had four cubs, but buffalo got the other two. Even lions have predators and one of the most dangerous is the buffalo.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lilac-breasted Roller</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow-fronted Longspur</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topi</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eland</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zgQq_rDQ_X8/XVhvXVCVNOI/AAAAAAAAS14/v2Iq-7EA17QtPfVr9GGdF1Ug_2aopCN7gCLcBGAs/s1600/Kicheche-15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zgQq_rDQ_X8/XVhvXVCVNOI/AAAAAAAAS14/v2Iq-7EA17QtPfVr9GGdF1Ug_2aopCN7gCLcBGAs/s320/Kicheche-15.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Secretarybird</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grey Crowned-crane</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black-shouldered Kite</td></tr>
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Dinner was most interesting. For the first time, we are not the only guests. We are joined by several Brits and a talkative, opinionated Kenyan who manages the camp. Among the conversation topics were the future of South Africa, Uganda’s present and the role of China as Africa’s source of aid. He is worried about South Africa, especially if Malema gains power. He could turn South Africa into another Zimbabwe especially after all the problems created by Zuma. He said that Uganda is the best country in Africa now. Since they have overcome the killings that were only a few years ago, they seem to have learned to live together and are doing some great things to care for the wildlife and keep the people safe. It’s interesting that Uganda has chosen to support Arsenal as their soccer team. He told us that since Kenya learned that violence is not the answer to political disagreements things are much improved. Corruption is coming under control and crime is way down. Kenya has told China it doesn’t want more aid because of china insist on too much control and require too much use of Chinese workers. These Chinese expectations are good for China, but ultimately leave the recipient with all the maintenance costs and not much in the way of training or actual development.<br />
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-14455100233297521592019-09-04T13:34:00.000-07:002019-09-04T13:34:04.713-07:00Ol Malo - More Walking<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The next morning I took another walk downhill along a stream bed. Linda chose to stay with our land rover. The pleasant walk ended at a small river with some great birds along the streamside. We saw ten different birds including some ducks on the river and our first owl, the Pearl-breasted Owlet hidden among the leaves.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All we could get of the Pearl-breasted Owlet </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow-breasted Apalis</td></tr>
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That evening we took a longer walk through a dry riverbed in hopes of seeing an eagle owl. While we failed to find that bird we did see several others. The most interesting part of the walk, however, was seeing another village and its wells. These wells are wide holes dug near the big trees where the water table is close to the surface. The ladies walk down to dip the water out. Because they are not reinforced, they won’t last forever, but looked to be sturdy enough to last several years. This village reminded us of ones we saw in Namibia, rectangular and made of sticks rather than mud walls. A nice sundowner ended the drive part of the evening.<br />
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For dinner we joined the family and their guests for a farewell barbecue. Being able to spend time with these friends who now live all over Kenya was a special experience we aren’t likely to repeat although our willingness and desire to interact with other guests usually opens us up to special conversations and experiences.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Airstrip Waiting Room</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption">Sign explaining the elephant fences</td></tr>
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The next morning we were greeted outside our room by a family of Stone Partridge. It took us an hour to get to the airport and our plane to the Masai Mara. Along the way, we saw a number of animals and birds although nothing new or different. The airport is actually the center of another game reserve and has a lovely waiting room with maps and posters describing the area. </div>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-86515137004671381742019-09-02T10:03:00.000-07:002019-09-02T10:03:24.251-07:00Ol Malo - A walk and breakfast al fresco<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not our mode of transportation, but it is an option</td></tr>
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The next day was one of the most interesting of our trip. We
began at 7:00 with a short drive. We saw a small tower of eight giraffes and
several pair of dik-diks. Because we were going to walk, we were joined by an
extra guide with a gun. He aspires to become a primary guide, is quite good
with birds, and would join us for all the rest of our game drives. Our walk was
a pleasant downhill trek to breakfast. We didn’t see much along the way, but
were excited to see Colin waiting for us with the breakfast setup. The chef
took our omelet order while we began with a fruit plate. All the while we
talked to Colin about the ranch and it flora and fauna. We were joined by
several birds and a couple of squirrels. As we drove back Colin told us about
the time our protector had faced off with a lioness protecting a cub. Rather
than kill the lion he shot over her head which stopped her. He was ready to do
more, but showed a great deal of courage by not immediately going for the kill
shot as she advanced on the group.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YROFoK5IG-w/XVhZiyXXkLI/AAAAAAAASxI/HK1SoeTDHUATbYBwyjP6PTuTLwcEIwxFACLcBGAs/s1600/OlMalo-28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YROFoK5IG-w/XVhZiyXXkLI/AAAAAAAASxI/HK1SoeTDHUATbYBwyjP6PTuTLwcEIwxFACLcBGAs/s320/OlMalo-28.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dik-dik</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Von Der Decken's Hornbill</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Breakfast partner</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Superb Starling, D'Arnaud's Barbet, White-browed Sparrow-weaver<br />
also joined us for breakfast</td></tr>
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At lunch we were joined by Colin’s daughter-in-law Chylue
and some friends from school who gather every year for a reunion. They all grew
up and live in Kenya although not all have chosen to be citizens. We learned
that when Kenya first gained independence under President Jomo Kenyatta,
wildlife protection was far from a priority. His son made several millions by
selling zebra pelts; in the process killing most of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the country’s zebras. Meanwhile Kenyatta’s
wife became known as the ivory queen as she focused on rhinoceros horns and
elephant tusks. Needless to say, things have changed although every country in
Africa has problems with poachers and a difficult future as populations
increase putting more pressure on land now reserved for wildlife.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eastern Chanting Goshawk</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reticulated Giraffe</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gY7qVtAMiok/XVhZgiA6S5I/AAAAAAAASw4/7EAqeeXBsTYOpG_p7QHPOxFGfLohKyh_gCLcBGAs/s1600/OlMalo-25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1416" data-original-width="1062" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gY7qVtAMiok/XVhZgiA6S5I/AAAAAAAASw4/7EAqeeXBsTYOpG_p7QHPOxFGfLohKyh_gCLcBGAs/s320/OlMalo-25.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rosy-patched Bush-shrike</td></tr>
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For our evening drive we stayed up on the plateau enjoying
the evening light. We had some nice views of oryx and hyenas along with
giraffes and gazelles. Before dinner, we spent more time talking to Chylue
about life in Kenya. Among other things she told us that whites were given a
choice at independence between a passport or a work permit. Her family chose to
take passports, something they are quite happy about today as that gives them
more permanent rights as citizens that merely having a work permit. There is a
concern about health care. Her father needs an ablation for his afib, but will
have to go outside to get it. He will go to England although he could go
anywhere other than the US or UAE where the procedure would be too expensive.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-rumped Helmetshrike</td></tr>
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For dinner we were ushered up some circular stairs to a
small room open to the stars. Dinner, as always, was excellent and we enjoyed
sharing this beautiful spot overlooking the valley and open to the stars.</div>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-22955279965844825542019-08-31T00:44:00.000-07:002019-08-31T00:44:18.022-07:00Ol Malo - Samburu Village<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wul_t69KP40/XVdeXSfD2fI/AAAAAAAASwM/uEEFn6wtczUwNbDc8LkMCvrtHojGAOLWACLcBGAs/s1600/OlMalo-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wul_t69KP40/XVdeXSfD2fI/AAAAAAAASwM/uEEFn6wtczUwNbDc8LkMCvrtHojGAOLWACLcBGAs/s320/OlMalo-6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Our evening drive would culminate with a visit to a local village. Each “village” is really a family compound. A fence made of branches surrounds the huts and protects the goats at night. Each hut belongs to one of the wives and is only used for cooking and sleeping. We took a tour of one of the huts where we saw the kitchen with one bed off to the side for the wife so she and the husband have privacy when he chooses to sleep with here. The other room is for the children.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our guide talking to one of the children</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The cooking pot</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A headrest for sleeping</td></tr>
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The villagers raise goats for milk as they are only allowed to eat meat from cow-like animals. They have chickens but do not eat the eggs. The chickens make themselves useful by eating the fleas, ticks, and ants the otherwise might overwhelm the village. We were told that they choose to continue to live in the old ways with no running water or electricity. As always, one wonders how true this is, but they certainly could take advantage of modern technologies if they wanted to. I suppose the real question is what percentage of the tribe really feels this way and what opportunities there are to choose differently. Our guides and some of those who worked at other jobs for the safari camp were choosing a different life than traditional even as they went home to their village. Our guide already had two wives and was looking to add a third and increase his goat herd.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the foreground is the village fence to protect the flock at night</td></tr>
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We had arrived in time to see the nightly dance performed by the young men and women from the area. Each night they dress up and gather at one of the villages to perform a Manyata, as they dance and show off for each other. The boys dance in a circle and from time to time one of more of them will show off their jumping ability.
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They have worked hard to have good relations with the Samburu employing them and working with them as they manage the ranch. They employ over 100 people including several from other parts of the country. They close down during the dry months of April, May, and November. During that time, some of the employees will be sent to workshops to learn more about guiding or other jobs at the camp.<br />
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We returned to camp for a nice shower and dinner in our room. Just like at Ol Pejeta, we are the only guests.
David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-7618255457925556902019-08-27T18:08:00.000-07:002019-08-27T18:08:32.219-07:00Ol Malo - The Camp<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As we drove up the hill to Ol Malo Safari Camp, we began to believe that the pictures we had seen on the internet were accurate. Looking up at the beautiful buildings at their setting atop the hill overlooking the valley, we could only look forward to our stay here. Our only concern would be the dryness of the terrain.<br />
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We were here at the beginning of the rainy season, but the rains had yet to appear. The lack of rain should mean that the sparse vegetation makes the animals easier to see. However, in this case, it also meant that many of the animals had moved on to better feeding elsewhere. This included the wild dogs that appear near the camp from time to time. As we would learn over the next three days, this safari camp was much better for birds than animals although we would have a couple of iconic sightings and special experiences that would have been unavailable elsewhere.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eBzA6W_PL-Y/XVdctUdgRuI/AAAAAAAASuo/-s9QekaP7Vwg5VGBxZUpY93VL4op01ruACLcBGAs/s1600/OlMalo-18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eBzA6W_PL-Y/XVdctUdgRuI/AAAAAAAASuo/-s9QekaP7Vwg5VGBxZUpY93VL4op01ruACLcBGAs/s320/OlMalo-18.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our Hippo Tub</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IkEupYSCGhA/XVdctQiAP-I/AAAAAAAASus/bX1t2bDC910f620graNlaqLBrWSm7WZVgCLcBGAs/s1600/OlMalo-20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IkEupYSCGhA/XVdctQiAP-I/AAAAAAAASus/bX1t2bDC910f620graNlaqLBrWSm7WZVgCLcBGAs/s320/OlMalo-20.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Note the creative use of beams</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Double sink</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A mix of rocks in the shower</td></tr>
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As we were shown to our room, our impression of the place only increased. We decided calling it a camp was a misnomer. We walked down stone stairs to a common room larger than most living rooms. Its stone floor opened out to a balcony overlooking the valley with a large fire place opposite. Rooms on either side would have been used by us and the Briggs had they been able to join us. These two rooms are perfect for two couples.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our patio view</td></tr>
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We had lunch with Rocky, who along with her husband Colin, had built this place. Colin had been managing another ranch when this one came available. They made the necessary sacrifices to purchase the property and begin building their dream. It was available because of the problems the previous owner had with the Samburu tribe living in the area. Instead of working with them, he refused to either hire them or work with them. Colin and Rocky hired the Samburu to do most of the work building the camp and used local materials. The results are magnificent. Floors and walls of local rock with the crushed red clay used as mortar. The ceiling held up by trees and branches visible give the place a rustic look. Our bath tub looked like a hippo, thus we were in the “Hippo Room”. To flush the toilet we pulled a branch above the tank.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That stick flushes the toilet</td></tr>
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David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-13136275082470234092019-08-26T06:01:00.000-07:002019-08-26T06:01:33.972-07:00Ol Pejeta - Northern White Rhinos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The next morning we headed for the Northern White Rhino Sanctuary. Ol Pejeta is home to the last two Northern White Rhinos left in the world -- ANYWHERE. On the way we made a stop at the Rhino Graveyard where each of local rhinoceros that have been killed or died of natural causes recently is buried. This moving memorial with about 20 gravestones includes one for Sudan, the last remaining male Northern White Rhino who was euthanized just last year. At 45 years old, he was too old and the ladies too weak in the hind legs for him to have impregnated either of them. The plan now is to take the sperm they have saved from Sudan and eggs harvested from the ladies to impregnate 15 Southern White Rhinos they will use as surrogates.
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We were taken into the pen with the two ladies where we could approach closely in safety. Their warder did leave the land rover to work with the rhinos and get them to come closer. After spending some time with them, we left that corral to visit Baraka, a blind northern black rhino. We called him by beating on the fence. After a short time, he finally decided to visit us so we could offer him some food.
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As we left the Rhino Sanctuary, we also saw a couple of Oryx. The white underbelly helps reflect the heat to the sand in Namibia where we also saw these animals.<br />
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On our way back to camp we stopped to take a lengthy look at a Whistling Thorn Acacia. The plant has a symbiotic relationship with some ants who live quietly among the thorns. The ants stay out of sight until the tree is disturbed or they smell giraffes. If the giraffes try to eat the tree, the ants will attack them, especially around the eyes. Some giraffes have learned that if they stay downwind, they can eat the tree without being bothered. Of additional interest, the whistling comes as the wind blows over the holes the ants bore into the tree’s fruit.
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Our drive back also took us through a dazzle of zebras about a mile long. Driving slowly, we saw a variety of interesting behaviors.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zDUWSKAZ9Po/XVdYz1T1FhI/AAAAAAAASuA/3f6Ndm_VBlszfcXP7eAMnKghg4rDMSkDQCLcBGAs/s1600/OlPejeta-93.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zDUWSKAZ9Po/XVdYz1T1FhI/AAAAAAAASuA/3f6Ndm_VBlszfcXP7eAMnKghg4rDMSkDQCLcBGAs/s320/OlPejeta-93.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the fastest antelope in Africa<br />
In East Africa it is a Topi<br />
In Southern Africa it is a Tessabe</td></tr>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-73392222120981712502019-08-24T07:24:00.000-07:002019-08-24T07:24:00.135-07:00Ol Pejeta - Cheetahs, Lions, and Birds<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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That evening we had a couple of incredible experiences. First, we came across a pair of cheetahs on their way to the river to have a drink. Duma found a great vantage point above the river so we were able to get a few special pictures.<br />
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Later we came across and elephant who had also ventured down to the river for a drink. However, he had some trouble finding his way back up out of the gorge. After a couple of unsuccessful tries, he finally found a route he could negotiate up the hill. We also saw a full plumage Paradise Monarch Flycatcher. When these birds are mating, they develop a beautiful white plumage and long tail to show off for the ladies. We also had a good look at a honeyguide. The name appropriately highlights the fact that they do lead people and animals to bee hives in search of honey.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, Success</td></tr>
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By the time we headed back darkness had settled in. We hoped to see an anteater, but had to be satisfied with a Kori Bustard, a pair of white-tailed mongoose, and two different nightjars.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Hamerkop Nest<br />
The largest next for a single bird in Africa.</td></tr>
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The next day on our early morning drive we encountered a pair of lions. While she stayed down in the long grass, he spent some quality time with us in the beautiful morning light. We also saw a few wonderful birds.<br />
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After breakfast, we drove off to Ol Malo. After three hours of a bouncy, dusty road we arrived at this beautiful rustic camp high atop a hill overlooking the valley below.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ClgVDbD6fmc/XVdTTNW12LI/AAAAAAAASsc/5xKFNpF0iVIO3u-nxJS8JL_KKHPaVwTlQCLcBGAs/s1600/OlPejeta-77.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ClgVDbD6fmc/XVdTTNW12LI/AAAAAAAASsc/5xKFNpF0iVIO3u-nxJS8JL_KKHPaVwTlQCLcBGAs/s320/OlPejeta-77.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-browed Coucal</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White-bellied Go-away Bird</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goliath Heron</td></tr>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-33782872454382501512019-08-23T04:20:00.000-07:002019-08-23T04:20:12.040-07:00Ol Pejeta - Hyenas and Zebras<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The next morning we saw a few ostriches. They have had no chick for at least ten years. It seems the hyenas are eating their eggs.
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VwJl3dKCtfg/XVdJeQ9vBXI/AAAAAAAASpQ/YrEAAuPUdOg4Il6n9NDzYXxMEflx7wm9gCEwYBhgL/s1600/Ol%2BPejeta-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VwJl3dKCtfg/XVdJeQ9vBXI/AAAAAAAASpQ/YrEAAuPUdOg4Il6n9NDzYXxMEflx7wm9gCEwYBhgL/s320/Ol%2BPejeta-9.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Male</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Female</td></tr>
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Before heading back to camp we stopped for a bird walk. The “Hippo Bird Walk” has its own guide to protect us from any of the animals that might take exception to us. We saw eleven birds and two hippos on the walk.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lilad-breasted Roller</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TSwsegX4vW0/XVdJcZB05OI/AAAAAAAASpI/NkD8seAd5i4R0SIf_dWDaRkw5vX9GNKNQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Ol%2BPejeta-14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1201" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TSwsegX4vW0/XVdJcZB05OI/AAAAAAAASpI/NkD8seAd5i4R0SIf_dWDaRkw5vX9GNKNQCEwYBhgL/s320/Ol%2BPejeta-14.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Little Bee-eater</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KjR74YMOIpU/XVdJeV358WI/AAAAAAAASpM/F4i_YmO2HdoPBGrrqAHrhWwTPovo8XQKQCEwYBhgL/s1600/Ol%2BPejeta-16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KjR74YMOIpU/XVdJeV358WI/AAAAAAAASpM/F4i_YmO2HdoPBGrrqAHrhWwTPovo8XQKQCEwYBhgL/s320/Ol%2BPejeta-16.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martial Eagle</td></tr>
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Our typical days include lunch and a few hours rest before heading back out for the afternoon drive. This afternoon we searched unsuccessfully for lions, but still had two interesting encounters. The first was an opportunity to watch a dazzle of zebras at a watering hole. While most of the dazzle stood up above the river to watch, three or four would venture down to get their drink. Before too long all of them had their drink and they could move off.
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We also saw a couple of old male Cape Buffalo. These old guys are no longer strong enough to defeat the younger males so they have to leave the females. Of they are fortunate, they are gather in a herd. Staying together provides them some protection for the lions. As you can see from the pictures, they have definitely aged.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice the oxpicker picking his nose</td></tr>
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Then on our way back to camp we came upon six hyena cubs playing by their den. As we watched in the evening glow of the sun, they slowly decided we were worth checking out. First one, then another, and finally all of them came up to our vehicle. Duma told us they would eat the tires if we let them so we moved several times to keep them from enjoying the rubber. Meanwhile we enjoyed watching them up close and personal.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A tawny eagle looking good in the evening light</td></tr>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-888095210679226392019-08-22T12:00:00.000-07:002019-08-22T12:00:19.887-07:00Ol Pejeta: The Camp<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">The camp at Ol Pejeta is more rustic than any
others we have seen. The tents are really tents although they do have cement
floors, king-size beds and full bathrooms. We do have to schedule our showers
so the staff can bring a bucket of hot water. The water is raised above and
released into the shower. It does provide plenty of pressure, more than we had
in some hotels. One load was enough for both Linda and I to finish our showers.
The lodge is a larger tent raised on a platform overlooking a pond. The tent is
large enough to house the kitchen, bathrooms and two offices in addition to
dining and lounging. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6BL5eLoLrDY/XVcPx7Wav7I/AAAAAAAASm8/Ftv1yhjrjCwRQpr6XGR--uH4B2fi1meMQCEwYBhgL/s1600/OlPejeta-49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6BL5eLoLrDY/XVcPx7Wav7I/AAAAAAAASm8/Ftv1yhjrjCwRQpr6XGR--uH4B2fi1meMQCEwYBhgL/s320/OlPejeta-49.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Shower Stall</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click to make larger<br />
They fill the bucket with hot water<br />
Then raise it so the water flows through the hose</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view of the shower setup</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">On our afternoon drive duma took us by the ranch
area of the Conservancy where they raise cattle. The ranch helps support the
Conservancy and the cattle complement the wild animals that also graze on the
land. These are brahma-like cattle with massive horns. They are controlled with
an electric fence. Elephants are kept out with a unique set of electric wires
at chest level. About two feet long they poke the elephants as they approach
the fence which otherwise would offer no resistance to the huge elephants.
Because the chest of the elephant is sensitive, these seemingly innocuous wires
keep the elephants in their place.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nubian Woodpecker outside our tent</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">We made one interesting stop so Duma could show
us some black rhino poo. Black rhinos have a narrow mouth which they use to
pick fruits and leaves from trees and shrubs. As vegetarians, they have no
incisors, only sharp molars that make 45 degree cuts as they chew on the
branches. Duma found some example twigs in the poo for us. </span></div>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">In addition to the cattle and poo, we had some
good looks at hartebeest, warthogs, and waterbucks. We also spent some time at
a waterhole where we saw a few shorebirds. Duma told us that the waterhole had
some catfish even though it looked much too small to have any fish. Once it
starts to rain the waterhole will fill up and even overrun the banks.
Last year it had flooded so much that it left fish behind as it receded to its
current level. The predators and birds had a field day. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Two pictures of waterbucks</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">A somewhat rare sighting.<br />Waterbucks usually keep the young ones hidden.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Warthog - He is not praying, just getting closer to his food</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We are the only guests. The staff is attentive
beyond measure and they make sure we always have someone to share the meal
time. We had interesting conversations with the manager. Peter was a welder
from Australia who met his Kenyan wife and moved to Kenya after they were
married. He became interested in the birds and went to work for the company. He
had to get a special work permit which took several months. The fact that
married a Kenyan was no help and he said it would probably be impossible for
someone to get a similar permit today. He also shared that his wife has trouble
entering South Africa. Because she is a white person with a Kenyan passport,
they pulled her aside for special interviews. </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , "serif"; font-size: 12.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dining Table</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lounge</td></tr>
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<span style="color: black; font-family: "arial" , "sans-serif"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">By the time we were ready for bed it was already
cold. The camp gave us two hot water bottles to warm up the bed. The next
morning they still had enough warmth to use to warm our clothes before getting
dressed. They also gave us bottles to help take off the chill for the
morning ride. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-8152163036074669282019-08-21T10:07:00.000-07:002019-08-21T10:07:32.880-07:00Ol Pejeta: Arrival<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QaAonei2aUw/XVNq_uHk_QI/AAAAAAAASkg/hkrwNMSXga0SXo36oKgVU0q14Wxa2ovBQCLcBGAs/s1600/OlPejeta-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QaAonei2aUw/XVNq_uHk_QI/AAAAAAAASkg/hkrwNMSXga0SXo36oKgVU0q14Wxa2ovBQCLcBGAs/s320/OlPejeta-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Cessna 208B Caravan, the plane of choice in this part of Africa</span></td></tr>
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We arrived at the Nanyuki airport about noon where we were met by Duma, our guide. Duma means cheetah in Swahili. He was given the nickname because he is good a finding cheetahs on game drives. It turned out that he was good at finding all kinds of birds and animals, so we were happy. The Conservancy is about 30 minutes from the airport so we had to wear seat belts for the first part of our journey. We drove past the typical roadside restaurants, bars, and shops on our way. These are the strip malls of East Africa with several joined together in a row alongside the highway. Some are obviously open while others are more difficult to discern. They might be open or they might even be closed for good. We always saw people around them passing the time. Occasionally, they would have food or drink, but most of the time they seemed to be chatting or resting.<br />
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We crossed the equator twice before we reached the conservancy. The weather here is pleasant and not too hot, but still very dry. We are over one mile in elevation. We stopped at one of the equator crossings to take a couple of pictures. When we reached the entrance to the Conservancy, Duma registered our arrival. While he did that I talked to a young couple traveling on their own. They were from Spain and planned to spend a couple of days at the public campground.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gazelle - the side stripe will disappear as males age</td></tr>
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Conservancies are private concessions on land owned by one of the indigenous tribes. Tribes are paid a fee for their use so they won’t be developed as towns or farms. The leases are only temporary however, so there is often concern that when the lease expires, the tribe will end the conservancy arrangement to meet the needs of the growing population. This is one of the many pressures on African wildlife we learned about while on our travels.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Di_yjFzApPI/XVNrWN8KD6I/AAAAAAAASk8/Msa9bQx0Gn46-XSiBFFrpi22-bAQDaD7wCLcBGAs/s1600/OlPejeta-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Di_yjFzApPI/XVNrWN8KD6I/AAAAAAAASk8/Msa9bQx0Gn46-XSiBFFrpi22-bAQDaD7wCLcBGAs/s320/OlPejeta-4.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baby elephants are so cute</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">African Kingfishers are much more beautiful than ours.<br />
This is a Brown-hooded Kingfisher</td></tr>
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When we got back in our vehicle to head to camp, Duma told us we no longer needed seat belts. We would not be driving fast enough to need our seat belts and we were now off the main roads so we would not be stopped by any police looking for a chance to earn some money.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elands are the largest of the antelope-type animals</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dry landscape</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cXknNmBEk8E/XVNsFc-J1eI/AAAAAAAASlQ/phlbas6aIqcMHg3eV8wsy1Ko9POm6vU1ACLcBGAs/s1600/OlPejeta-14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cXknNmBEk8E/XVNsFc-J1eI/AAAAAAAASlQ/phlbas6aIqcMHg3eV8wsy1Ko9POm6vU1ACLcBGAs/s320/OlPejeta-14.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another gazelle</td></tr>
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On the way to the camp we saw a number of gazelles. These beautiful animals are similar to impala. They are the dominant antelope-type animal in this part of Africa in the same way impalas dominated the landscape in southern Africa. They are a more striking animal because most have a black stripe along the flank. On males this stripe disappears as they mature. This part of Africa has two different gazelles: Thompson (the smaller of the two) and the Grant. Other than size, they are difficult to tell apart.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fJCJRao69Cc/XVNsqTK14rI/AAAAAAAASlk/B8OfDlpOJMMXzB4g4kLeibHfjRRTwufgQCLcBGAs/s1600/OlPejeta-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fJCJRao69Cc/XVNsqTK14rI/AAAAAAAASlk/B8OfDlpOJMMXzB4g4kLeibHfjRRTwufgQCLcBGAs/s320/OlPejeta-7.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Superb Starling<br />
These birds are everywhere</td></tr>
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We also saw elephants, reticulated giraffes, impala, and buffalo. And of course, we saw a number of birds. The most beautiful of these is the superb starling. Just like the European starling we have in the US, they are ubiquitous and a bit obnoxious, but at least they are native. The birds of Africa are generally more beautiful and interesting than those we have at home.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellow-necked Francolin</td></tr>
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4266505600752328129.post-86641135643065511712019-08-20T16:25:00.002-07:002019-08-20T16:25:42.746-07:00Nairobi - Karen Blixen House and David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust<br />
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After about half an hour we took a quick look in the gift shop and headed off to Karen Blixen’s house. Blixen, who was Danish, lived in Kenya from 1913-1931. She left Denmark to marry her first husband who wanted to establish a coffee plantation on land that he purchased. The marriage did not go well and they divorced in 1925. In the meantime she had met Denys Finch Hatton, big game hunter, with whom she had an affair that lasted until he was killed in plane crash while on safari in 1931. The coffee plantation had failed by then due to some mismanagement, a fire, world recession, and the fact that the land is really too high to grow coffee. Her book about her experience under the pen name Isak Dinesen became a best-seller and movie starring Meryl Streep and Robert Redford.<br />
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The grounds and house are now a museum providing guests a reasonably accurate picture of life during those years. The house is filled with artifacts and pictures and the grounds include some of the machines used to produce the coffee. The house is rather small by modern American standards, but well-appointed for tours.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old machinery used for roasting coffee</td></tr>
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We finished our house tour a bit earlier than expected so our guide suggested a visit to the Kazuri Bead Factory. The factory opened some 20 years ago to provide an income for unwed mothers. Today, it employs over 100 women and a few men making beads and jewelry. They have a gift shop on-site and sell all over the world through stores such as 10,000 villages. We purchased several items as Christmas presents and a couple of things for Linda’s personal collection.<br />
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Our final stop for the day was at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust: Haven for Elephants and Rhinos. We had read books by Diane Sheldrick about their work in Africa so we were anxious to visit here. We had also donated $50 to this trust as part of the cost of our trip thanks to Mango Safaris, our travel agent for this trip. With this money we became “parents” of Luggard, one of the orphaned elephants at the haven. We arrived at 5:00 pm in time to watch the animals return to their pens for the night after spending the day in the wilderness of Nairobi National Park which abuts the Trust land. The youngsters arrived right on time trotting past the line of proud parents. The head keeper named each animal as it passed by, but did not name Luggard. Nor did he name the elephant John and Cherie Briggs had adopted.
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Of course, we asked what had happened. Lugard had been shot in the hind leg by poachers and was permanently injured. Because of that, he is slower than the others and would be pushed and shoved as they rush back for the night. He gets to come in to the pens earlier by himself to avoid that. Briggs’s elephant had already been released into the wild at Tsavo East, one of Kenya’s national parks. Each of the elephants is released after four years. We were surprised to learn that the trust doesn’t do anything special to prepare the animals for life in the wild. They release them in the vicinity of an elephant family that will eventually take them in and care for them - a real adoption. Even though Luggard will always be a bit slow, they expect that he will do fine once he is adopted. He will be released next year.<br />
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They also provide homes for rhinoceros although we only saw two. Maxwell is a blind rhino who is about 13 years old. He won’t be released into the wild and can expect to live the next 25 years or so in his pen. The other rhino we saw was only a few days old and seemed to be progressing nicely. Unfortunately, she died a few days after our visit. He had appeared to be healthy, but succumbed to some ailment in only a few hours and even with the veterinarian’s work, they were unable to save her. Rhinos are solitary creatures, so they are released into an area where they will have plenty of room or where they are strong enough compared to other rhinos in the area to protect themselves.<br />
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It is sad that this kind of effort is necessary, but with the continued presence of poachers and the unwillingness of nations like China and Vietnam to crack down on the smuggling, the animals need this kind of support to preserve the species.<br />
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We finished the evening with dinner at Tamarind, a very nice restaurant in one of the warehouses used by the Blixen coffee plantation. Looking around the restaurant, we noted that about 80% of the patrons were white. We were told that the Karen neighborhood is one of the nicer areas of Nairobi and very popular with diplomats and government officials.
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The next morning we left early for the airport and our flight to Ol Pejeta and our first safari camp. On our drive it soon became evident why tours avoid driving in the downtown area of the city. Even though this national airport was only about half the distance it would have been to the international airport, it took us twice the time as it had two nights before. And this was without any accidents. Wilson Airport is one of Africa’s busiest because it handles all the national and regional flights out of Nairobi. Each small airline has its own small terminal building. Our guide took us to the door and helped us load our bags right onto the security belt right inside the door before he had to whisk away to his next gig. We had been told that they would weigh every bag and perhaps even our bodies to make sure we were not over the weight limit. Technically, we were limited to 33 pounds including all our carry-ons. Any passenger over 220 pounds is supposed to be paying for two passengers. I had taken both cameras, lenses, and binoculars out of the camera bag hoping that would leave us close to the 33 pound limit. Then they only weighed out checked luggage. When Linda realized that, she added her back pack to the checked luggage and we entered the small waiting room to await the call to our flight.
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Our plane was a 20 seat Cessna with only about 12 passengers so Linda and each got our own row. I spend part of the flight talking to a travel agent from Toronto who knows Suzanne, our agent from Mango. On the 90 minute flight, we took a few pictures of the landscape and noted the small farms that make up most of the land beneath us even as we approached the Ol Pejeta Preserve where we would spend the next three days. As long as the population keeps growing, the pressure will continue to open up more wilderness for more of these small farms, necessary to provide both jobs and food for the growing population. It’s not a promising situation for the wildlife that brings us to this beautiful and fascinating continent.
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<br />David Barberhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03208878520471341407noreply@blogger.com0