Ol Malo - Samburu Village

Our evening drive would culminate with a visit to a local village. Each “village” is really a family compound. A fence made of branches surrounds the huts and protects the goats at night. Each hut belongs to one of the wives and is only used for cooking and sleeping. We took a tour of one of the huts where we saw the kitchen with one bed off to the side for the wife so she and the husband have privacy when he chooses to sleep with here. The other room is for the children.

Our guide talking to one of the children

The cooking pot

A headrest for sleeping

The villagers raise goats for milk as they are only allowed to eat meat from cow-like animals. They have chickens but do not eat the eggs. The chickens make themselves useful by eating the fleas, ticks, and ants the otherwise might overwhelm the village. We were told that they choose to continue to live in the old ways with no running water or electricity. As always, one wonders how true this is, but they certainly could take advantage of modern technologies if they wanted to. I suppose the real question is what percentage of the tribe really feels this way and what opportunities there are to choose differently. Our guides and some of those who worked at other jobs for the safari camp were choosing a different life than traditional even as they went home to their village. Our guide already had two wives and was looking to add a third and increase his goat herd.

In the foreground is the village fence to protect the flock at night

We had arrived in time to see the nightly dance performed by the young men and women from the area. Each night they dress up and gather at one of the villages to perform a Manyata, as they dance and show off for each other. The boys dance in a circle and from time to time one of more of them will show off their jumping ability.

They have worked hard to have good relations with the Samburu employing them and working with them as they manage the ranch. They employ over 100 people including several from other parts of the country. They close down during the dry months of April, May, and November. During that time, some of the employees will be sent to workshops to learn more about guiding or other jobs at the camp.

We returned to camp for a nice shower and dinner in our room. Just like at Ol Pejeta, we are the only guests.

Ol Malo - The Camp

As we drove up the hill to Ol Malo Safari Camp, we began to believe that the pictures we had seen on the internet were accurate. Looking up at the beautiful buildings at their setting atop the hill overlooking the valley, we could only look forward to our stay here. Our only concern would be the dryness of the terrain.

We were here at the beginning of the rainy season, but the rains had yet to appear. The lack of rain should mean that the sparse vegetation makes the animals easier to see. However, in this case, it also meant that many of the animals had moved on to better feeding elsewhere. This included the wild dogs that appear near the camp from time to time. As we would learn over the next three days, this safari camp was much better for birds than animals although we would have a couple of iconic sightings and special experiences that would have been unavailable elsewhere.

Our Hippo Tub

Note the creative use of beams

Double sink

A mix of rocks in the shower

 As we were shown to our room, our impression of the place only increased. We decided calling it a camp was a misnomer. We walked down stone stairs to a common room larger than most living rooms. Its stone floor opened out to a balcony overlooking the valley with a large fire place opposite. Rooms on either side would have been used by us and the Briggs had they been able to join us. These two rooms are perfect for two couples.

Our patio view

We had lunch with Rocky, who along with her husband Colin, had built this place. Colin had been managing another ranch when this one came available. They made the necessary sacrifices to purchase the property and begin building their dream. It was available because of the problems the previous owner had with the Samburu tribe living in the area. Instead of working with them, he refused to either hire them or work with them. Colin and Rocky hired the Samburu to do most of the work building the camp and used local materials. The results are magnificent. Floors and walls of local rock with the crushed red clay used as mortar. The ceiling held up by trees and branches visible give the place a rustic look. Our bath tub looked like a hippo, thus we were in the “Hippo Room”. To flush the toilet we pulled a branch above the tank.

That stick flushes the toilet

Ol Pejeta - Northern White Rhinos

The next morning we headed for the Northern White Rhino Sanctuary. Ol Pejeta is home to the last two Northern White Rhinos left in the world -- ANYWHERE. On the way we made a stop at the Rhino Graveyard where each of local rhinoceros that have been killed or died of natural causes recently is buried. This moving memorial with about 20 gravestones includes one for Sudan, the last remaining male Northern White Rhino who was euthanized just last year. At 45 years old, he was too old and the ladies too weak in the hind legs for him to have impregnated either of them. The plan now is to take the sperm they have saved from Sudan and eggs harvested from the ladies to impregnate 15 Southern White Rhinos they will use as surrogates.

We were taken into the pen with the two ladies where we could approach closely in safety. Their warder did leave the land rover to work with the rhinos and get them to come closer. After spending some time with them, we left that corral to visit Baraka, a blind northern black rhino. We called him by beating on the fence. After a short time, he finally decided to visit us so we could offer him some food.

As we left the Rhino Sanctuary, we also saw a couple of Oryx. The white underbelly helps reflect the heat to the sand in Namibia where we also saw these animals.

On our way back to camp we stopped to take a lengthy look at a Whistling Thorn Acacia. The plant has a symbiotic relationship with some ants who live quietly among the thorns. The ants stay out of sight until the tree is disturbed or they smell giraffes. If the giraffes try to eat the tree, the ants will attack them, especially around the eyes. Some giraffes have learned that if they stay downwind, they can eat the tree without being bothered. Of additional interest, the whistling comes as the wind blows over the holes the ants bore into the tree’s fruit.

Our drive back also took us through a dazzle of zebras about a mile long. Driving slowly, we saw a variety of interesting behaviors.

This is the fastest antelope in Africa
In East Africa it is a Topi
In Southern Africa it is a Tessabe

Ol Pejeta - Cheetahs, Lions, and Birds

That evening we had a couple of incredible experiences. First, we came across a pair of cheetahs on their way to the river to have a drink. Duma found a great vantage point above the river so we were able to get a few special pictures.

Later we came across and elephant who had also ventured down to the river for a drink. However, he had some trouble finding his way back up out of the gorge. After a couple of unsuccessful tries, he finally found a route he could negotiate up the hill. We also saw a full plumage Paradise Monarch Flycatcher. When these birds are mating, they develop a beautiful white plumage and long tail to show off for the ladies. We also had a good look at a honeyguide. The name appropriately highlights the fact that they do lead people and animals to bee hives in search of honey.

Finally, Success

By the time we headed back darkness had settled in. We hoped to see an anteater, but had to be satisfied with a Kori Bustard, a pair of white-tailed mongoose, and two different nightjars.

A Hamerkop Nest
The largest next for a single bird in Africa.

The next day on our early morning drive we encountered a pair of lions. While she stayed down in the long grass, he spent some quality time with us in the beautiful morning light. We also saw a few wonderful birds.

After breakfast, we drove off to Ol Malo. After three hours of a bouncy, dusty road we arrived at this beautiful rustic camp high atop a hill overlooking the valley below.

White-browed Coucal

White-bellied Go-away Bird

Goliath Heron