Vigeland Park in Oslo

 

This is one of the most amazing parks in the world. Gustav Vigeland convinced the Olso government that if they would support  him, he would build them a park. This is the result. Not everyone appreciates the nudity, but no can deny the very real character Vigeland creates in these figures. One of his goals was to show life as it is lived from birth to death.

Polynesian Cultural Center

When we visited Oahu years ago, we passed on visiting the Polynesian Cultural Center. It’s a long ways from Oahu and we never spent more than a couple of days on this island so it was too out of the way for a quick visit. This time we made sure to visit this place especially after spending time in New Zealand and Fiji, two of the Polynesian cultures highlighted at the Center. 

Polynesian Wedding

The Center was created by the Mormon Church more than 40 years ago partly to provide work for the students at BYU-Hawaii located next door. Students come to the school from all over the Pacific and most of them need help paying their bills. Jobs at the Center provide both income for the students and a way for them to share their culture with others. The Mormon Church has long been a promoter of intercultural understanding. From a selfish point of view this is important for the young people they send all over the world proselytizing. These missionaries will only be successful if they can connect with the people they are working to convert and this can only happen if they understand those cultures. When I taught World Geography I used their Culturegrams as one of the resources. These four-page pamphlets on each country provided basic cultural information about the people of those countries. The Polynesian Cultural Center is another way they help people understand other cultures.

The park is a sort of Disneyland without the thrill rides. It only offers two rides. One is a canoe ride that passes by each of the six cultures with a ‘village’ for patrons to visit. The other is a tram ride that visits the college campus and the LDS Temple Visitor Center. Each of the villages has houses and other buildings one would find on their islands and one or two shows highlighting ceremonies or elements of daily life on the island. These included a Tahitian Wedding Ceremony, a Maori Welcome Ceremony, a demonstration of coconut preparation and tree climbing from Samoa and others from Tonga, Hawai’i and Fiji. The tour we had chosen also included a dinner with island foods and the big Ha! Breath of Life show at the end of the evening.

There is too much to do in one visit, so we chose to have a guide as we visited the six villages. Our guide, a political science student from Fiji, was great as she added information about her home and more knowledge about each of the different villages. We would definitely recommend using a guide for a first time visit. Next time, we will do it on our own and pick and choose a bit so we can see things we missed on this trip. We might also purchase dinner at one of the restaurants rather than the big one we had although that would mean missing the smaller singing and dancing show we had during dinner. It’s also a good idea to utilize one of the bus tours as it takes over an hour to drive and if you stay for the show, and that is a must, you will be driving back in the dark on dark and winding roads. Better to leave the driving to them. 

This boat takes folks throughout the park

This boat is part of a parade of nations

As we visited each village we also had time to ask more questions about the things we were seeing or didn’t see. Each of the people at the village is a student or graduate from that culture so they were able to answer any question any of us had. 

The evening show was spectacularly worthy of Broadway. The storyline begins with the birth of a boy and follows him through his life. Each segment includes dancing and singing from one of the six village cultures. The stage is backed by a rock wall through which performers can come and go. They also enter and leave through the aisles in the auditorium adding more excitement. The show ends with the most spectacular dancing of all, the Samoan flaming knife dance. The flaming batons are actually knives so the danger is real although the skill exhibited by the dancers makes it look rather easy. Not that I plan on trying this at home or anywhere else any time in the near or distant future. Watching this is enough, thanks. 

Through it all, we left with a much better understanding of how people live on the islands of the Pacific and increased our desire to see more of them. 

Samoans climb the tree to gather coconuts

Honolulu

We spent a week on Kauai two years ago, but otherwise it has been over 20 years since David had been to Hawaii. LInda had a conference in Honolulu more recently, but that was still several years ago. On this trip we decided to spend a couple of days here to check out the city today and visit the Polynesian Cultural Center, something we had not done previously. 

We arrived at our hotel from the airport and our overnight ride from Fiji around noon of the day before we left. The International Date Line taketh away and returneth later, not that we really notice the dates anymore. After checking in, we went looking for a place to eat, but first stopped to inquire from a street hawker about the Cultural Center, even though we remembered that a stop here could mean a visit to a presentation for a time share. Jason turned out to be a big help. While we did choose to listen to the presentation, he did set us up with a bus ride to the Cultural Center at a 50% discount the next day. 

The Duke

We continued walking towards the oceanfront to find a place to eat. A couple of blocks later we ended up at the Harbor Pub where we had sandwiches and drinks with a minimal view of the water. The food was good, the restaurant has been there many years and is showing its age. Oceanfront establishments seem to come in two varieties. One is the upscale, fancy place that usually costs significantly more for food that is no different from anywhere else. These places have to be refurbished every few years to overcome the havoc that salt water air and sand wreak on any place that is close to the beach. 

The others are like the Harbor Pub. Catering to locals and low budget tourists, they are usually off the main drag even if they still have waterfront property. They don’t have the budget to refurbish every few years so they do show their age. Many, like the Harbor Pub, offer excellent service and good food, especially for the price. Guidebooks often ignore these places because they don’t meet the standards set by the ritzier places in the center of the tourist area. We like to find them because they lack that touristy feel and when the food is good, it is very good. 

Inside the Crater

 That night we did something we rarely do while traveling: we ate at a chain restaurant. Looking for something light and easy after the big lunch we chose Buffalo Wild Wings over IHOP, McDonalds, and the Red Lobster also in the neighborhood. There really wasn’t much else that appealed this evening. 

The next day after our presentation, we took advantage of one of the tourist trams for a ride up Diamond Head, another part of Oahu we had not visited before. For part of the ride we were the only passengers so our driver took excellent care of us with a couple of extra stops for pictures and a side trip through one of the most expensive neighborhoods in Honolulu where we saw some very nice homes. 

We finished our tour on this tram in the middle of Waikiki, walked over the the beach to watch some surfers and take pictures of the Duke Kahanamoku statue, honoring one of the early surfers who really popularized the sport beyond Hawaii’s shores. From there we walked the beach a while before taking a break at the Mai Tai Bar in the Royal Hawaiian. The Royal Hawaiian is the original luxury hotel on Waikiki. It is still called the Pink Palace and still offers luxury accommodation. I figured I needed a Mai Tai and Linda chose to have a Moscow Mule. We sat at the bar and nursed these excellent drinks enjoying the people watching. Tonight that included watching the bartenders play jokes on each other. 

Then it was off to find a place to have some dinner. That turned out to be a bit of a project as we first had to find our way through the hotel to the street. We only lost our way twice before finally asking for help. I’m still not sure how the cars found their way off the street to the entry way, but we did manage to reach the street. 

We chose the Maui Brewing Company Pub a few steps up the street where we enjoyed another good meal accompanied by a Maui IPA and Linda’s Sauvignon Blanc. The street entrance is quite modest with a greeter and a choice of stairs or elevator. The elevator took us up three floors to the pub that turned out to be nearly a block long filled with people. It’s only been open a few months and is obviously doing very well as they expanded from their Maui roots. 

Another tram returned us to our hotel and a good night’s sleep before we headed off to the Cultural Center in the morning. 

 

Flying Fiji Air

Our flight from Auckland to Fiji on Fiji Air was great. Linda booked us into business class so we had access to the Air New Zealand lounge at the airport where we could get a good bite to eat, use the internet, and enjoy a couple of complimentary drinks. The amenities aren’t enough to pay for all the time, but we have certainly gained an appreciation for the benefits, especially when you have a long layover. Sometimes the food and drinks pay for themselves in the bargain.

A pleasant way to prepare for takeoff

The service on the plane was even better. A drink before takeoff set the stage followed by a menu for the upcoming meal which will be accompanied by a nice wine and the flight actually becomes enjoyable. On this flight we had Fijian cocktails with rum and tropical juices. I liked it enough to have two.

Last look at New Zealand

The airport in Nadi (pronounced Nan-dee) is small so gathering bags and finding a taxi easy. We made three stops in the airport. First was a hit on the ATM. While credit cards are taken almost anywhere, most places also charge a 2%-4% fee for their use making cash a better alternative. Then it was to the phone counter to purchase phone cards for internet access. It seems we can’t get along without that any more. Finally we spent some time at the tourist information booth talking to Randy for some activity ideas.

Our flight from Nadi to Honolulu was not as much fun. We weren’t sure if our flight left at midnight or 1:00 am. Both times were on the reservation. The hotel clerk called to check and still wasn’t sure, but she also told us to be there by 9:00. That seemed a bit excessive for a small airport even for an international flight, so we asked for a 9:00 taxi which would get us there by about 9:30. When we arrived we learned that the flight would leave at 1:00 and our check-in would begin at 10:00. At least we were first in line.

During check-in things got more interesting. First, we learned that while most international flights allow two checked bags per person, Fiji Air only allows one and the surcharge for a second bag is US$120 per bag. The clerk suggested that we take our two smaller bags and have them wrapped in plastic saving us the cost of one bag.

Linda was chosen for a special security screening at the gate. She and four others were subjected to an extra wanding and another carry-on search. The rest of us had our carry-ons rechecked, too. The rest of us had our bags rechecked, too. All courtesy of Homeland Security.. We were also subjected to this when we left Johannesburg, South Africa. In my case, he opened my camera bag, glanced at it, and just asked what was in my tripod bag without bothering to look inside. Treatment of the camera bag varies from place to place. Sometimes it goes right through the x-ray, but I have on occasion had to remove everything to send it back through x-ray in baskets. At one Aussie airport, the inspector spent about 20 minutes taking things apart and checking them before finally discovering and removing the nail clipper in the first aid kit. He left the tiny scissors behind. It’s hard for me to understand.

Rather desolate look of Christmas Island

Our flight made a stopover at Christmas Island (Kiritimati), one of 33 reef islands and atolls that make up the sprawling island nation of Kiribati, not to be confused with the more famous Christmas Island north and west of Australia. The plane was about ⅓ full so even though we were in tourist class, we had plenty of room to spread out. Fiji Air makes this flight stopover twice a week on the way to and from Honolulu. They have a similar arrangement with Samoa.

Air terminal at Christmas Island

 

 Once on the ground at Kiritimati, we had to disembark to go through the entire security check again. This is also required by our paranoid government. I guess they think we could have concocted something on the flight from Fiji. I do have trouble seeing any sense to ALL of this paranoia. I realize a certain amount of security is necessary, but some of this doesn’t make any sense and certainly doesn’t make me feel any safer.

Relaxing after the ordeal of our third security inspection.

 

While we waited in our tiny secured waiting room, another group of passengers got on the plane. Most of them were carrying bags longer than allowed and flat. We figured that they were musicians, but when we asked learned that these were fly fishermen and women who had come here for some of the world’s best fly fishing. Wow!! I talked to two guys from South Carolina who traveled the world just to fly fish. If this island has any other tourist attractions, they wouldn’t know about it as every day started in the dark and ended in time for dinner.

Finally back on the airplane and off to Hawaii

The rest of the flight was uneventful and we landed in Honolulu on time where we whisked our way through customs. Thanks to our Global Entry status, we don’t have to wait in lines or fill out any paperwork at all. Just scan the passport, smile for the camera, and take your coupon to the agent. They did ask if we had anything to declare and we did see dogs sniffing everything, but otherwise that was as pleasant as experience as is possible when entering the country.

Fiji - Mondriki and other islands

We wanted to visit at least one of the other Fijian islands. There are 332, about 1/3 of which are inhabited and the better snorkeling is off those islands. We chose a tour that would take us from our resort on Denarau Island first to South Sea Island where we would spend a couple of hours and then on to Mondriki Island where we would spend the afternoon. Both islands offered snorkeling so that looked like a good option. Mondriki is also the island where the movie Castaway with Tom Hanks was filmed adding a bit of interest even though we have not seen the island.

Then the morning we were to head out, we ran into two snafus. First, I misunderstood the times and we missed our bus. Fortunately, we arrived early enough to catch a taxi to the harbor just in time to catch our boat. Snafu number two: our tickets were for the day before and today’s boat was sold out. This in spite of the fact that I had asked the agent to verify that we were on this cruise the day before. I’m not sure what she did, but it seems obvious that we had already missed the cruise we were supposed to be on. We said we couldn’t go tomorrow because our flight would leave tomorrow. With only moments to spare they scheduled us on a different tour that would still spend the morning on South Sea Island and then we would hop on a ferry that would stop at three of the other islands as it delivered passengers to and from them. Better than nothing. 

As we got on the boat, the agent at the harbor also upgraded us to the Captain’s Suite where we could have free drinks and snacks as we traveled. Whoever was at fault for the mixup, South Sea Cruises certainly did their best to make it up to us.

After a 30 minute boat ride, we arrived at South Sea Island. I never asked, but I wonder if the island is named for the cruise company or vice versa. South Sea Island is literally small enough to walk completely around in ten minutes. We did not bother to do that as we could easily see the entire island as we disembarked. After we gathered under the palm trees to learn the plans for our stay, we headed off to take a ride in the semi-submersible viewing boat. This mini-cruise lasted about 15 minutes giving us some nice views of the coral and the small fish swimming around them. 

Upon our return to the island we immediately prepared to go snorkeling. We changed to our swimsuits, procured some swim fins, and headed off to the snorkel area on another small boat. The coral here is not a reef as it is many places, but just some humps in the ocean covered with coral and inhabited by many small fishes. We spent about 45 minutes enjoying the views before heading back to shore to shower and change back into our beach ware. 

After about half an hour to simply enjoy the sun and sand, lunch was served, barbecued chicken and fish accompanied by several salads and complimentary drinks. We sat with three young ladies on a two-month world tour from Europe. Two were from Norway, the third from England. They had spent the night on South Sea Island and planned to be bit bored the rest of the afternoon and evening as they had one more night to spend on this island before moving on to another, hopefully more exciting island. We had fun talking about their travels and plans. They had been to Dubai, Singapore, and Australia and were planning to visit Los Angeles and Las Vegas before returning home to school. Not a bad vacation.

After lunch we gathered up all our stuff and boarded another boat for a ride out to some other islands. We wouldn’t get to see Mondriki, but we did get a good sense of what some of the other islands were like. Less settled than our island with only one or two resorts, the wilderness was much closer on these smaller islands. On another trip, it will be fun to stay on one of them for a couple of nights.

 

When we arrived back at the condo, we realized that our flight was leaving tonight at 1:00 am, not tomorrow night. It’s amazing how easy it is to get confused as one changes time zones, crosses the International Date Line and leaves after midnight with an arrival the day before. Fortunately, we had plenty of time to eat and get everything packed and arrange for a taxi to the airport. The only real glitch from then on would be the $120 extra baggage fee charged by Fiji Air. We have since learned that Fiji Air is not the only airline with a fee for a second bag on an international flight so we will be checking this more carefully in the future and perhaps packing a bit differently.