Our fifth day on the river took us through the Rhine River
Gorge. This section is the most beautiful and is lined with castles, one about
every two kilometers. Because it is navigable all the way from Rotterdam to Basel,
the Rhine has always been one of the world’s busiest rivers.
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Trains travel along the river on both banks |
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Liebenstein and Sterrenberg Castles in the distance |
This section of the
Rhine is narrow which made it easier for local barons to set up ‘toll booths’
along the river. The fact that there was no central government in Germany meant
that these local ‘robber barons’ had free reign to do as they pleased. So they
built a castle with a tower and even used chains across the river to enforce
the tolls.
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Pfalz Castle is situated in the river easing the collection of tolls |
Many of the castles would be destroyed when France became
powerful and decided that the Rhine River should be the eastern border. Louis
XIV has many of the castles in the 1680s. More would be destroyed by the French
Revolutionary Army in the 1790s and by Napoleon in 1806.
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Schonburg Castle |
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Rheinfels Castle |
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Maus Castle |
Then in the late 1800s, they began to be rebuilt often in
the neo-Gothic style of the Romantic Age. Today, they are hotels, hostels,
restaurants, and museums and a delight to travelers in the area.
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Sooneck Castle |
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Liebenstein and Sterrenberg with the wall built between to separate the brothers who became enemies over a woman. One story has it that they settled things and celebrated with an arrow in the air each morning. One day one arrow found its mark as the other brother opened his door to fire his arrow. Perhaps some of the story is true. |
As has been the norm for this trip we had decent but not
beautiful weather for most of the day. The partly sunny forecast turned out to
be true. We had blue sky in places, but often the sun was obscured by the
remaining clouds. At least is was not raining and we were able to sit on the
upper deck and enjoy the views.
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Bacharach |
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Liebfrauenkirche |
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St. Nikolas Catholic Church |
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Another of the many churches |
The trip through the gorge took about two hours and we arrived at Koblenz about noon.
After lunch, we were treated to a tour of Marksburg Castle. Marksburg avoided
the destruction of the French period and is today a museum showing how the
castle inhabitants lived and worked.
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Marksburg Castle |
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The three towers were from the lead smelter at the bottom of the hill. Today the stacks stand idle. The factory recycles car batteries. |
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When carts were no longer entering the castle the door was narrowed for protection |
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The cannons were ready, but the castle was never attacked |
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The bellows pushed the wine into a fresh barrel for drinking |
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The kitchen |
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Tapestries also provided insulation from the cold walls |
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Self-sufficiency was essential |
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A variety of armor |
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A rack used for torture |
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Drainage ditch. They thought of everything |
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The blacksmith's forge. He made tools, not decorative pieces. |
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View of town from the castle |
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Beautiful tilework |
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