Visiting one of the volcanos is a must when traveling to
Costa Rica according to the travel guides. This is true even though there are
too many musts to see even in a three week trip like we had. Arenal is one of
those volcanos and if we had been here several years earlier we could have seen
it erupting and the lava flowing down the mountain side. Our hotel gave us the
best views of the mountain when the clouds finally cleared. We were a bit lucky
here because often the clouds don’t go away. Tall mountains have the ability to
create their own weather which in this case means many cloudy days at the
mountain top.
Our ride to Arenal was special because we were alone in a
car with a fellow birder. We weren’t always so lucky. We stopped half a dozen
times on our trip to get good looks at some hawks in the distance and chatted
about birding in the Arenal area. Before taking us to our hotel, he introduced
us to a friend, tour guide and fellow birder who set us up with a couple of
field trips where we would have a good opportunity to see birds.
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Black-mandibled Toucan |
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Great Curassow (male and female) |
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Our resident White-nosed Coati |
Our hotel also put us close to some natural area which meant
that we had good looks at birds and animals even as we ate our meals in the
restaurant. We took three field trips from out hotel to explore the surrounding
area. Our first trip was a walk through the forest at Arenal Hanging Bridges.
These are extremely solid for hanging bridges with very little sway, wide
walkways, and solid handrails. We arrived early in the morning so were able to
see about half of the twenty birds we would see before we even left on the
hike. Then we walked about two miles over seven hanging bridges enjoying the
chance to be up in the wilderness and not just having to look up. This was a
great walk and much better than the one we would do later at Monteverde. The
one at Monteverde was more focused on get folks up the gondola so they could
zip line back down. I find zip lining to be fun, but not a great adrenaline
rush and you zip too fast to enjoy the scenery or see any wildlife. I’m happier
just hiking on the hanging bridges.
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Great Potoo |
The next day we took a long van ride nearly to the
Nicaraguan border where we took a boat ride on Rio Frio in the Cano Negro
Wildlife Refuge. We stopped on the way at Restaurant Las Iguanas. The name is
appropriate as dozens of iguanas hang out over the river next to the
restaurant. Of course this was also a chance to buy a few souvenirs and a bite
to eat or drink for those so inclined. We spent about three hours on the river
getting some good close-up views of monkeys, birds, and a variety of lizards.
We even passed by a tree filled with bats awaiting the evening light to go on
their bug runs. The most exciting view according to the guides was the pair of
Jabiru flying high overhead. These birds aren’t rare, but they are rarely seen
in spite of their size.
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Sloths do move very slowly |
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Jabiru |
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Interesting Bat Trees |
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Capuchin Monkeys entertain us |
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Lesser nighthawk |
We had a nice rustic lunch on the way back of rice, chicken
and beans. When we got to town, I opted to get out and walk the three miles
back to our resort. The town was mildly interesting. Several bars and
restaurants with sports on TV just like home although these were all open to
the weather. I also passed by many tourist shops and guide offices. Hotels and
hostels also abound in this tourist-oriented town. A lovely park sits in the
center of town. After leaving the town, I passed by farms and cattle ranches
before turning off the main road to the hotel. I hadn’t noticed that the final
part of the walk was about ½ mile uphill before reaching the hotel.
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Downtown Arenal |
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City Center Park |
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Branches grow into trees for a cheap fence |
The next day, I opted to go on another guided hike on the
other side of the volcano. It was to this side that the volcano spewed its lava
in the past to the point of destroying the town that had been nestled under the
mountain. We hiked up a small outcropping of lave to get great views of the
volcano and the Arenal Lagoon that we would travel the next day for part of our
trip to Monteverde. Near the parking lot was a small area with samples of
banana and coffee trees. The hike over the lava was a bit rough but worth it for
the scenery and the plant life we saw beginning the process of breaking down
the lava into soil.
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White-throated Magpie Jay |
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A family of Coati stop traffic |
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The other side of Arenal |
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Pacific Screech Owl |
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