Ashland

Weisinger's vineyard

We travel to Ashland at least twice a year so we can see all eleven plays that the Oregon Shakespeare Festival performs. This is our 26th year attending the Festival. We started slowly seeing only three or four plays a year in one trip, but now we won’t miss a single one. We don’t like every single play we see, but the same is true when we go to New York or London and the productions here are every bit as good, and often more interesting.

The deck adjoining Weisinger's tasting room

Weisinger machinery

But it’s not just about theater. Ashland now has a dozen or more excellent restaurants and over 40 wineries are open for tasting between Ashland and Grants Pass, 50 miles to the north. Two of our favorites are Weisinger’s on the south edge of town and Wooldridge Creek about 30 mile away in the Applegate Valley. We always visit both and fill in the other spaces on the clock with stops at one or more of the many others. It has been fun watching the wine industry grow from just a few wineries to the many here today. Tasting rooms have evolved from small rooms and even cabins to some as elaborate as anything you might find in Napa Valley.

Smokey view from Weisinger's deck

The valley is also a good place for bicycling. Three big climbs over the passes are balanced with the 20 mile Bear Creek Trail that extends from south Ashland to north of Medford. The mileage markers begin at 8 miles so there are plans to extend it even further south. Since the trail follows Bear Creek, it is a wonderful ride through a riparian ecosystem with lots of birds and small mammals. Plenty of hiking trails also criss-cross the landscape here offering more outdoor opportunities. Nearby Crater Lake is a nice day trip although the smoke from the fires would have made it less than pleasant this summer.

Another good day trip is a visit to Jacksonville. One of the first gold rush towns in Oregon, it was bypassed by the railroad. The benefit today is that the town is a step back in time since it also missed the development that followed the railroads and was also bypassed by the freeways that gutted so many small towns. A few good restaurants and an eclectic mix of shops can easily take  up most of a day. Jacksonville is also fortunate that what was probably the first bank in Oregon was closed up in 1915 and ignored for almost a century. Today it’s a small free museum with a docent overflowing with information about the history of the bank and the town. Jacksonville is also home to the Britt music festival. The Britt features current rock and blues groups along with classical concerts in a beautiful outdoor setting. Just like OSF, aficionados purchase tickets well in advance.  

Ashland itself has changed over the last 20 years. As the theater has grown the town has changed from a typical medium-sized town where one could purchase any household needs to one filled with restaurants and shops catering to the more than 100,000 theater-goers who visit every year. Housing prices have risen to match as more and more people see the valley as a great place to live and retire. We especially appreciate the many Bed and Breakfasts that are available to enhance our stays here. Most of the hosts are also avid theater goers so morning breakfast conversations and often lively at at times a bit contentious as we discuss our different reactions to the plays seen the day before.

This year we stayed at The Shrew's House for the third time in recent years. Korren and Ronna are fabulous hosts and great cooks. The meals are interesting and tasty without overwhelming either the tastebuds or the stomach. They always join us for the morning breakfast even as they serve and clean the tables offering their insights into the plays and things to do in the area. Of minor interest is the fact that this is the B&B we stayed at on our first trip to Ashland some 20 years ago.

Outdoor dining at the Jacksonville Inn

Whatever else we do, Ashland will always be a big part of our yearly travels.

Friday Harbor

On Sunday, my sister Kristie and her husband Roy took us for a boat ride from Bellingham to Friday Harbor. We were hoping to get some relief from the heat and smoke that has permeated the entire Northwest for the last several days. As we motored across the water, we were hindered by a heavy fog. This is not unusual for Puget Sound mornings, but with the smoke, it seemed somewhat heavier than usual. Fortunately, the fog lifted as we entered the channel and we were able to continue on.

Entering the harbor

This tree greets all visitors to Friday Harbor

Friday Harbor, on San Juan Island, is only accessible by boat or plane. Most people arrive by Washington State Ferry. The ferry stops here on its way from Anacortes to Victoria, British Columbia. The system also makes stops at three other of the San Juan Islands. The ferry system in Washington is officially part of the highway system, a fact that somewhat stabilizes funding for this essential travel service.

This would be our second visit to this charming town filled with shops, restaurants, and a Whale Museum. Our first trip was via the Victoria Clipper. The Clipper is a hydrofoil making fast trips from Seattle to Victoria with a short stop in Friday Harbor. We spent one night in town on that trip before continuing on to Victoria. While in town we visited the Whale Museum and took a three-hour whale-watching trip.

Street scenes

The Salish Sea is home to several pods of killer whales. The museum describes their lives and the problems they face in the Sea. Distinctive markings make it possible to name each of the whales so researchers are able to keep track of each individual’s actions. Several options are possible for whale viewing. We took one of the larger boats that held about 50 passengers. One can also ride in a Zodiac or even try a kayak.

A popular way to sightsee

Seal watching is also popular

On this day we were only going to wander through the town for a while and then have lunch before returning to Bellingham. In our wanders we passed several shops including one where my sister purchased an new rain jacket. I spent some time talking to the owner of a bicycle/kayak rental agency. Many arrivals rent bicycles if they have not brought their own to ride around this bicycle-friendly island. Many also rent kayaks to paddle around the island.

We chose this restaurant. I has seats with a view.

For lunch we found a nice fish and chip place, to order take-away and then headed back towards the harbor where we found a table and enjoyed some excellent fare. Linda had shrimp, I had scallops, while Kris and Roy had fish. All were lightly breaded and perfectly cooked. After that enjoyable lunch we headed back to the boat and found calmer seas and no fog for our ride back to Bellingham.