Thursday, September 7, 2017

Sydney


Our first stop on this trip to Australia is Sydney, the largest city. Sydney is a vibrant and beautiful harbor city that captivates anyone who arrives. The Harbor Bridge and the Opera House are the icons, but there is much more to see and do in this great city. We started our trip a few weeks early so we could attend Stanford’s season-opening football game against Rice. The game was a bit of a bore as Stanford won 62-7, but we still enjoyed our days here.


Linda's Souvenir Scarf
 A New Building
Old and New
We started our visit with the HopOn/HopOff bus to get an overview. We immediately were seeing one of the great architectural aspects of Sydney. Their heritage laws allow remodeling of old buildings, but the facades must remain unaltered. We see old two and three story buildings right next to a modern skyscraper. In one case, the new building rises just behind the facade so we have three floors of the old building backed by ten stories of new construction.

The world's largest green building. The mirrors in the
middle reflect sunlight on poorly lit areas.
Australian Ibis enjoying the park. They are abundant.
Another friendly aspect of the city is the large number of parks, large and small. Hyde Park in the middle of downtown covers two full blocks and is the site of the ANZAC memorial and the large Archibald Fountain, built by publisher JF Archibald to honor himself.


The Archibald Fountain
Beautiful Church
The Harbor Bridge
Observatory Park above the Rocks district (the oldest part of town) offers great views of Sydney Harbor and close access to views of Harbor Bridge. We visited this park late Saturday afternoon waiting for a Stanford meetup the night before the game. Joining us in the park were five or six wedding parties taking advantage of the picture opportunities. Our meetup was in the Lord Nelson Hotel/Brewpub, the oldest continuously operating pub in town.

Street of old buildings
The last iron pissoir in Sydney. It is still in operation.

We arrived at the Lord Nelson after a day at Manly Beach and a walk through the Rocks. Old buildings dominate this area including the oldest actual pub, the Hero of Waterloo. It was out of service a few years so it has to share oldest honors with the Lord Nelson. Another small park, the Paddock, offers views of wharves built in 1910 to improve Sydney as a port. Today all shipping has moved south leaving Sydney Harbor for tourists and private boats. The wharves have been repurposed as offices and apartments. Much of the harbor area is undergoing construction as the city grows and develops. Sydney supposedly has more cranes in operation than any other city in the world. Seattle leads the USA in this statistic.


Bondi Beach
Two of Sydney’s most popular beaches are Bondi Beach and Manly Beach. We stopped at Bondi on our bus tour and Manly by boat later. Bondi was beautiful and is best for surfers. The curved beach makes for the best waves. It was cold and windy on our visit, so the beach was quiet. We wandered the area and had lunch before returning to the bus. It would be interesting to see the area during a hot summer day, but it did not seem to be an exciting area beyond the beach itself.


Relaxing at Manly



Football volleyball on Manly Beach
That is quite a contrast to Manly on a warm and sunny afternoon. Upon departing the ferry, one has to walk about six blocks down a touristy shopping street before reaching the beach. The beach was busy with sunbathers, families on picnic, and volleyball  players. Two of the nets were set aside for teaching volleyball. Four guys at another net were putting on a great exhibition of soccer volleyball - no hands allowed. We walked up and down the beachfront where we found more shops and a nice restaurant for lunch. Overall, Manly seemed to be a lot more fun than Bondi.

One of those many harbors
I think the best aspect of this city is the fact that Sydney Harbor is ringed with many smaller harbors increasing the size of the waterfront. We passed by several of these on our tour and saw them from our ferry to Manley. Any of these small harbors would be a nice place to live and play.


Darling Harbor is ringed with new apartments and shopping
Sydney offers many opportunities we have yet to sample. The fish market is one of the largest and best in the world. Several interesting art galleries and museums remain to be visited. Last time we were here we did go to the Aquarium and the Maritime Museum. Both would be worth another visit. As always, even with five days in this city, we do need to come back. Travel always leaves us wanting more.

A silver gull. I think it is one of the most beautiful of all the gulls.

The grill work is reminiscent of New Orleans (or perhaps vice versa)




Sunday, September 3, 2017

Columbia Breaks Fire Interpretive Center


About 15 miles south of Lake Chelan in central Washington, the small town of Entiat is home to one of the 107 Hotshot bases found throughout the western United States. Hotshots have one of the most exciting and dangerous jobs in the world as they are the first responders when a fire breaks out anywhere in the dry western forests. Often they are dropped from the sky from airplanes or helicopters to meet and defeat these fires. To tell their story and the story of wildfires in the West, a foundation began with the desire to save an old lookout by bringing it down from the mountain to this site along busy Highway 97 was created in 1990.


Badger Mountain Lookout from near Wenatchee.

East Flattop Lookout from near Mt. St. Helens in SW Washington.
Significant because of the unusual tilted windows.
Today the Columbia Breaks Fire Interpretive Center consists of three lookouts, an interpretive trail, a trail memorializing fallen firefighters, and an informational center with plans for another display panel and and interpretive garden of “fire-safe” plants to help homeowners.



The memorial trail consists of about 30 plaques naming the fallen firefighters and the fire and the year the fighter was killed. Beginning with two fires in 1929 the plaques name 17 fires. I don’t know how many firefighters have died over the years, but the deaths include 13 deaths on the Storm King fire in Colorado in 1994 and 19 of the 20 hotshots fighting a fire in Arizona in 2013. Even the best preparation does not always mean safety for all. An excellent book about the dangers is Young Men of and Fire by Norman Maclean describing the aftermath of a 1949 fire in Montana that killed 12.

A view of the landscape along the Columbia River

Ponderosa Pine
The ½ mile interpretive trail explains the role of fire in dry pine forests east of the Cascades. These forests, consisting primarily of Ponderosa pine, have been devastated by extreme fires in the last several years. These more recent fires are different than those in the past which would burn at a much lower temperature and consume fewer acres. The reasons for this are several including the drought conditions and higher temperatures we have faced in recent years. But at least as significant are the fire suppression efforts that have been in place since the early 1900s.


The forest as it was prior to fire suppression.
The forest after fire suppression.
The trees with an 'X' are to be removed opening up this forest.
These suppression efforts have completely changed the appearance of the forests and made them much more susceptible to the huge wildfires we see today. I thought I knew most of this story, but as I walked along the interpretive trail I learned much more. At different stops along the trail, the volunteers have recreated the forest to look as it did around 1900 before fire suppression began, what it looks like when fire suppression has succeeded, and how foresters are working to return the forests to their more natural state. 16 interpretive signs tell the story.

This sign shows how the forest has filled in over the years.
My biggest surprise was the sign showing a picture of a wagon driving through the forest around 1900. It was easy to drive wagons through the forests back in those days. Then forest managers decided to protect the forests and the people from all fires and began to put out all fires as quickly as possible. For the forests, this eliminated the opportunity for those smaller fires to clean out the underbrush and smaller trees allowing the more widely-spaced trees to grow taller and stronger. Over the years the empty spaces filled in with smaller pines and other trees and shrubs depleting the resources needed by the older trees. In their weakened state, those older trees were more susceptible to disease and lacked some of the moisture that would have helped them survive the fires and repair the minor damage they caused.


The tree in this sign was burned several times between 1817 and 1889.
After fire suppression we see no more evidence of fires.
Another result of the increased undergrowth is that the fires were more able to reach the crowns of the mature trees making it easier for the fires to spread. Under ideal circumstances, the lower branches of the trees fall off as the tree matures so there is no ladder for the fire to climb.


Chelan Butte Lookout overlooked Lake Chelan.

This box below the lookout kept food safe from predators.

One more aspect of this effort was a system of fire lookouts strategically placed all over the west. Staffed by men mostly and a few women for the summer, these mostly young lookouts spent a lonely summer watching for fires. Their only contact with the outside world was their regular reports to the base and the nightly hoot-owl hour when they had full access to the radio to talk to their colleagues in other lookouts. I remember listening to some of these conversations when I was growing up in Concrete, Washington. Because my father was the district ranger he had a radio in the house so I could listen. I don’t remember any of the conversations, but I wonder at times if I was listening to Jack Kerouac or Gary Snyder or any of the other beat poets who spent a few summers as lookouts in the early 1950s.

Overall I spent an interesting couple of hours at this spot and highly recommend stopping by if you are in the area.

The remaining pictures are of some of the flowers blooming this spring. The first one however shows the most dominant shrubs in the ecosystem. On the left is bitterbrush which is the more dominant after a fire because they can regenerate from the root crowns and underground seed caches made by rodents. Sagebrush must be regenerated by seeds from outside the fire zone. Both have a long taproot (up to 18 feet) and lateral roots to find water. Both are important sources of food and shelter for animals. Perhaps the most important today is that the sagebrush is necessary for the endangered sage grouse. It eats the leaves and depends on the plants for nesting sites.












Tuesday, August 22, 2017

Ashland

Weisinger's vineyard
We travel to Ashland at least twice a year so we can see all eleven plays that the Oregon Shakespeare Festival performs. This is our 26th year attending the Festival. We started slowly seeing only three or four plays a year in one trip, but now we won’t miss a single one. We don’t like every single play we see, but the same is true when we go to New York or London and the productions here are every bit as good, and often more interesting.


The deck adjoining Weisinger's tasting room

Weisinger machinery
But it’s not just about theater. Ashland now has a dozen or more excellent restaurants and over 40 wineries are open for tasting between Ashland and Grants Pass, 50 miles to the north. Two of our favorites are Weisinger’s on the south edge of town and Wooldridge Creek about 30 mile away in the Applegate Valley. We always visit both and fill in the other spaces on the clock with stops at one or more of the many others. It has been fun watching the wine industry grow from just a few wineries to the many here today. Tasting rooms have evolved from small rooms and even cabins to some as elaborate as anything you might find in Napa Valley.


Smokey view from Weisinger's deck
The valley is also a good place for bicycling. Three big climbs over the passes are balanced with the 20 mile Bear Creek Trail that extends from south Ashland to north of Medford. The mileage markers begin at 8 miles so there are plans to extend it even further south. Since the trail follows Bear Creek, it is a wonderful ride through a riparian ecosystem with lots of birds and small mammals. Plenty of hiking trails also criss-cross the landscape here offering more outdoor opportunities. Nearby Crater Lake is a nice day trip although the smoke from the fires would have made it less than pleasant this summer.






Another good day trip is a visit to Jacksonville. One of the first gold rush towns in Oregon, it was bypassed by the railroad. The benefit today is that the town is a step back in time since it also missed the development that followed the railroads and was also bypassed by the freeways that gutted so many small towns. A few good restaurants and an eclectic mix of shops can easily take  up most of a day. Jacksonville is also fortunate that what was probably the first bank in Oregon was closed up in 1915 and ignored for almost a century. Today it’s a small free museum with a docent overflowing with information about the history of the bank and the town. Jacksonville is also home to the Britt music festival. The Britt features current rock and blues groups along with classical concerts in a beautiful outdoor setting. Just like OSF, aficionados purchase tickets well in advance.  










Ashland itself has changed over the last 20 years. As the theater has grown the town has changed from a typical medium-sized town where one could purchase any household needs to one filled with restaurants and shops catering to the more than 100,000 theater-goers who visit every year. Housing prices have risen to match as more and more people see the valley as a great place to live and retire. We especially appreciate the many Bed and Breakfasts that are available to enhance our stays here. Most of the hosts are also avid theater goers so morning breakfast conversations and often lively at at times a bit contentious as we discuss our different reactions to the plays seen the day before.

This year we stayed at The Shrew's House for the third time in recent years. Korren and Ronna are fabulous hosts and great cooks. The meals are interesting and tasty without overwhelming either the tastebuds or the stomach. They always join us for the morning breakfast even as they serve and clean the tables offering their insights into the plays and things to do in the area. Of minor interest is the fact that this is the B&B we stayed at on our first trip to Ashland some 20 years ago.

Outdoor dining at the Jacksonville Inn


Whatever else we do, Ashland will always be a big part of our yearly travels.



Friday Harbor


On Sunday, my sister Kristie and her husband Roy took us for a boat ride from Bellingham to Friday Harbor. We were hoping to get some relief from the heat and smoke that has permeated the entire Northwest for the last several days. As we motored across the water, we were hindered by a heavy fog. This is not unusual for Puget Sound mornings, but with the smoke, it seemed somewhat heavier than usual. Fortunately, the fog lifted as we entered the channel and we were able to continue on.


Entering the harbor
This tree greets all visitors to Friday Harbor
Friday Harbor, on San Juan Island, is only accessible by boat or plane. Most people arrive by Washington State Ferry. The ferry stops here on its way from Anacortes to Victoria, British Columbia. The system also makes stops at three other of the San Juan Islands. The ferry system in Washington is officially part of the highway system, a fact that somewhat stabilizes funding for this essential travel service.


This would be our second visit to this charming town filled with shops, restaurants, and a Whale Museum. Our first trip was via the Victoria Clipper. The Clipper is a hydrofoil making fast trips from Seattle to Victoria with a short stop in Friday Harbor. We spent one night in town on that trip before continuing on to Victoria. While in town we visited the Whale Museum and took a three-hour whale-watching trip.
Street scenes


The Salish Sea is home to several pods of killer whales. The museum describes their lives and the problems they face in the Sea. Distinctive markings make it possible to name each of the whales so researchers are able to keep track of each individual’s actions. Several options are possible for whale viewing. We took one of the larger boats that held about 50 passengers. One can also ride in a Zodiac or even try a kayak.

A popular way to sightsee


Seal watching is also popular
On this day we were only going to wander through the town for a while and then have lunch before returning to Bellingham. In our wanders we passed several shops including one where my sister purchased an new rain jacket. I spent some time talking to the owner of a bicycle/kayak rental agency. Many arrivals rent bicycles if they have not brought their own to ride around this bicycle-friendly island. Many also rent kayaks to paddle around the island.
We chose this restaurant. I has seats with a view.
For lunch we found a nice fish and chip place, to order take-away and then headed back towards the harbor where we found a table and enjoyed some excellent fare. Linda had shrimp, I had scallops, while Kris and Roy had fish. All were lightly breaded and perfectly cooked. After that enjoyable lunch we headed back to the boat and found calmer seas and no fog for our ride back to Bellingham.