Monday, September 2, 2019

Ol Malo - A walk and breakfast al fresco

Not our mode of transportation, but it is an option
The next day was one of the most interesting of our trip. We began at 7:00 with a short drive. We saw a small tower of eight giraffes and several pair of dik-diks. Because we were going to walk, we were joined by an extra guide with a gun. He aspires to become a primary guide, is quite good with birds, and would join us for all the rest of our game drives. Our walk was a pleasant downhill trek to breakfast. We didn’t see much along the way, but were excited to see Colin waiting for us with the breakfast setup. The chef took our omelet order while we began with a fruit plate. All the while we talked to Colin about the ranch and it flora and fauna. We were joined by several birds and a couple of squirrels. As we drove back Colin told us about the time our protector had faced off with a lioness protecting a cub. Rather than kill the lion he shot over her head which stopped her. He was ready to do more, but showed a great deal of courage by not immediately going for the kill shot as she advanced on the group.




Dik-dik
Von Der Decken's Hornbill


Breakfast partner

Superb Starling, D'Arnaud's Barbet, White-browed Sparrow-weaver
also joined us for breakfast
At lunch we were joined by Colin’s daughter-in-law Chylue and some friends from school who gather every year for a reunion. They all grew up and live in Kenya although not all have chosen to be citizens. We learned that when Kenya first gained independence under President Jomo Kenyatta, wildlife protection was far from a priority. His son made several millions by selling zebra pelts; in the process killing most of  the country’s zebras. Meanwhile Kenyatta’s wife became known as the ivory queen as she focused on rhinoceros horns and elephant tusks. Needless to say, things have changed although every country in Africa has problems with poachers and a difficult future as populations increase putting more pressure on land now reserved for wildlife.

Eastern Chanting Goshawk
Reticulated Giraffe

Rosy-patched Bush-shrike
For our evening drive we stayed up on the plateau enjoying the evening light. We had some nice views of oryx and hyenas along with giraffes and gazelles. Before dinner, we spent more time talking to Chylue about life in Kenya. Among other things she told us that whites were given a choice at independence between a passport or a work permit. Her family chose to take passports, something they are quite happy about today as that gives them more permanent rights as citizens that merely having a work permit. There is a concern about health care. Her father needs an ablation for his afib, but will have to go outside to get it. He will go to England although he could go anywhere other than the US or UAE where the procedure would be too expensive.



White-rumped Helmetshrike
For dinner we were ushered up some circular stairs to a small room open to the stars. Dinner, as always, was excellent and we enjoyed sharing this beautiful spot overlooking the valley and open to the stars.


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