La Selva - Trails

When we weren’t on the lake with our guide we were out on one of the trails hiking through the rain forest. We never had any rain, but there were still wet spots where the rubber boots were necessary. We were fortunate that the four of us had our own private guide so it was easy to hear him tell us all about the flora and fauna and how the indigenous peoples used the various plants and animals.

A termite home. They don't harm the trees unlike some other parasites.

This flower is used for birth control. The black spots are flies.

We saw lots of spiders and other creepy-crawlies, but never saw a snake. It looks like Linda will get her wish and not have to see a snake here just like she never saw one in Africa. They do have anacondas here, but none showed up for us. We also saw quite a few birds, but pictures are difficult in the dense, dark forest. Even when you do get a clear view, the birds seldom stay put long enough to get a clear focus.

Find the Leaf Frog

One morning we started by climbing some 125 steps to the top of a tower built around a kapok tree. This put us at the top of the forest where we had a unique opportunity to see birds that were unavailable at ground level. Andres, our guide was disappointed in the number of birds we saw that morning. He said they needed some rain to get things growing and making the birds more active. I found it hard to be too disappointed when we saw eleven new birds that morning and had some great views of capuchin and spider monkeys playing in the trees.

On two evenings I went out looking for owls. Andres arranged for another guide, someone who knows where to find owls, to take me out alone after dinner. We had  just our flashlights to guide us. We stopped several times with the lights off. It was so dark that I had visions of being left behind with no idea which way would get me back to the lodge. After a couple of hours of nothing but owls calling in the distance we made our way back to camp. The next night I joined another couple from Costa Rica with a different guide who is an expert at finding owls. We stopped in one spot for about 45 minutes while he tried to call them to us. Again we heard them, but did not see anything. He said that to have the best chance of seeing owls, we needed some moonlight which was available at 4:00 in the morning. There were no takers. Maybe next time. 

On the last morning as we were preparing to leave this very rare Bald-faced Ibis stopped by for a visit. 

La Selva - A Lake in the Amazon Basin

The Lodge

The view from the lodge

At La Selva, we had two types of activities: paddle by canoe or walk the trails. Often we started in the canoe to get to the trail head. The lake is a beautiful backdrop to the lodge and our dining area, especially in the early morning and late afternoon light. While not huge with steady paddling, it would still take an hour or more to circumnavigate it. For us, it would take much longer as we stopped to see monkeys, birds, caiman, or other flora and fauna. We also learned that the lake has several little bays where birds and animals might be hiding. At times we were able to get within a couple of feet of some birds by just floating into one and staying very quiet.

One of the lakes many tiny coves

While we did not take advantage, we could have done some kayaking on the lake during the late morning or early afternoon downtime we had each day. People also are able to fish for piranha, catfish, and small-mouth bass off the dock – catch and release only. Linda, Taylor, and Danette did some fishing from the canoe our last evening there. Linda was skunked, but they did catch one each of the fish varieties.  I was off for an evening of owling so I missed that experience. Some of the kids also went swimming in the nice, warm water. It is totally safe since piranhas are only attracted to blood. 

This Sand-collared Nighthawk was one of the few birds that sat long enough for a portrait.

A Parrot Clay Lick and Home Visit

Days begin early here. We were on the boat and moving by 6:30. The birds of course are already busy. A small flock of Sand-collard Nighthawks flew by on their way to their roost. These birds are strictly nocturnal. Then a Tiger Heron flew by and landed at the dock as we were leaving, followed shortly by a Black-capped Donacobius flitting about along the edge of the lake. The Donacobius is a large member of the wren family.

Find the parrots

Blue-headed parrots are a bit easier to find

Our first stop for the day was the parrot clay lick. Parrots flock to this cliff along the shore of the Napo River to eat the clay that helps them eliminate the toxins they take in from the seeds they eat. They flit around in the trees near the lick until they feel safe before flocking to the lick. We had to wait about 30 minutes for them to feel safe enough. Raptors will also come here knowing they will have some easy pickings. Our guide said he has seen parrots actually land on snakes thinking it is just another branch. That, of course, is not a good choice for the poor parrot as it makes a nice meal for the snake. At one point a Greater Ani (a bird like a large blackbird or grackle) flew by and they scattered, save one who seemed oblivious to the commotion around him.

After a 30-minute boat ride we stopped to visit the Silverio family living in a Kichwa community along the river. The communities are one house wide and a two-hour walk long. Everyone needs to live along the river. Near the center will be the community center and the school. Since children have to walk to school and itinerant teachers may have a 14 days on, 18 days off schedule, schooling is a real problem for these families, particularly those at the far end of the trail. Communities elect leadership and develop rules for being a member. Men who choose not to sign the membership agreement will only be able to live with someone who is a member as membership is the only way to get the land needed for survival. Women cannot get land on their own.

The clay lick from a distance

The guides shared the family’s life-style with us including a tour of their farm.  They grow a variety of food for their own consumption and raise coffee and a few other things for sale in Coca so they can purchase the things they need. The farming is intercropped so the plants can provide nutrients for each other. They also fish the Napo for some of its variety. Their home is a series of buildings. We gathered in the kitchen dining room to learn about its construction and use. The thatch roof is made from a variety of different and the smoke from the cooking fire helps to waterproof the thatch. I had never looked that closely at thatch before. I will pay more attention in the future. 

Berta showing off her crafts for sale. We did buy a few.

The family shared a couple of different drinks with us – one a manioc drink that is fermented. We also sampled the food including some excellent smoked catfish, banana, plantain, hearts of palm, and a white cocoa nut for dessert. After the ‘meal’ we adjourned to the outside where we all got to try using a blow gun. The one we shared is about ten feet long. I was amazed at how easy it was to aim and ‘fire’. Most of us were able to hit the target after only one or two tries. Linda hit it with her first. It did not take a huge blow of air to fire it either.

Linda celebrates her excellent aim.

Andres helps one of our traveling companions.

After an hour or so, we walked back along the river trail and our camp boardwalk until we reached the canoes for our ride back up the stream and across the lake to camp. Along the way, we saw several spiders and other bugs and a couple of birds high in the canopy. Overall 22 different birds this morning. 

Arriving in the Amazon

Today was a very long day. Last night, the band in our plaza played until 2:15. The hotel is not insulated for that kind of loudness, so sleep was nearly impossible until they finished. At least, we liked the Ecuadorian Rock and Roll. We were up at 5:00 to catch our taxi to the airport. We had to be there by 8:15 and wanted plenty of time to beat any traffic problems. We won that race in spades. The driver took the new road of which our previous driver had nary a clue. So we arrived at the airport before 7:00. Then our flight was delayed until 11:50 so we got to spend several hours in the airport. Fortunately, Quito’s new airport is well-appointed and comfortable. The flight was anything but comfortable. Our seats were in the back of the plane and while the flight was only 40 minutes, it was the roughest we have been on in ages.

Downtown Coca

Our Canoe Awaits

We arrived in Coca where we got on a bus for a short ride to the Napo River. The Napo, one of the Amazon’s major tributaries is wider than the Columbia or Mississippi for most of the 15 miles we traveled it in our motorized canoe. Coca is the capital of this province and the hub for the oil exploitation that is happening in this region. Our ride took us past on of their sites. Sadly, they are still burning off the natural gas instead of using it in Ecuador. Ecuador actually imports natural gas which is frustrating for the Ecuadorians who know how much is being wasted. Hopefully the government will change this behavior in the next few years. Oil companies do have a lot of power however, something we are well aware of in the US.

Coca Bridge over the Napo River

An oil company barge. Everything travels by water.

After two hours on the canoe, we landed and walked about 15 minutes where we got into another canoe, this one a dugout. It came with a paddler instead of an engine.  Another 15 minutes and we were at the lodge where we were greeted with a cold drink and a presentation on the lodge and its amenities. By this time I had already seen five new birds. 

The view from our dock

Evening falls after a long day