Kicheche in the Masai Mara

We had a bumpy but interesting plane ride as we watched the landscape change from dry reserves to farmland to the open green of the Masai Mara. They had some rain here.

Upon landing, we met our guide who put us in a land rover for the drive to camp. During the half hour drive we passed several animals, the cutest of which was a mob of mongoose. We also saw hyena, elephants, warthogs, and topi (called tessabe in Southern Africa). Upon arrival, we were escorted to our tent overlooking the river and fields. Trees next to the tent promised a good selection of small birds.

It's nice to see a green landscape

Spotted Hyena

Striped Mongoose

As at Ol Pejeta, this is a real tent placed on a cement slab. We only found one electric outlet, but everything else was perfect. Actually, everything is tented here and we would eat all of our meals under the stars.

Our home for the next three nights

Our first drive just provided more than a taste of what was to come at this beautiful camp in the Masai Mara. The Masia Mara is the Kenyan portion of Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park. On that first drive we had our very best views of Lilac-breasted Rollers, Secretary birds, and Black-shouldered Kites. It helps that our guide, Richard, is also a birder and photographer. We found a mother cheetah with her three cubs and finished the evening with a G & T while watching a lioness and her two cubs. She had had four cubs, but buffalo got the other two. Even lions have predators and one of the most dangerous is the buffalo.

Lilac-breasted Roller

Yellow-fronted Longspur

Topi

Eland

Secretarybird

Grey Crowned-crane

Black-shouldered Kite

Dinner was most interesting. For the first time, we are not the only guests. We are joined by several Brits and a talkative, opinionated Kenyan who manages the camp. Among the conversation topics were the future of South Africa, Uganda’s present and the role of China as Africa’s source of aid. He is worried about South Africa, especially if Malema gains power. He could turn South Africa into another Zimbabwe especially after all the problems created by Zuma. He said that Uganda is the best country in Africa now. Since they have overcome the killings that were only a few years ago, they seem to have learned to live together and are doing some great things to care for the wildlife and keep the people safe. It’s interesting that Uganda has chosen to support Arsenal as their soccer team. He told us that since Kenya learned that violence is not the answer to political disagreements things are much improved. Corruption is coming under control and crime is way down. Kenya has told China it doesn’t want more aid because of china insist on too much control and require too much use of Chinese workers. These Chinese expectations are good for China, but ultimately leave the recipient with all the maintenance costs and not much in the way of training or actual development.

Ol Malo - More Walking

The next morning I took another walk downhill along a stream bed. Linda chose to stay with our land rover. The pleasant walk ended at a small river with some great birds along the streamside. We saw ten different birds including some ducks on the river and our first owl, the Pearl-breasted Owlet hidden among the leaves.

All we could get of the Pearl-breasted Owlet  

Yellow-breasted Apalis

That evening we took a longer walk through a dry riverbed in hopes of seeing an eagle owl. While we failed to find that bird we did see several others. The most interesting part of the walk, however, was seeing another village and its wells. These wells are wide holes dug near the big trees where the water table is close to the surface. The ladies walk down to dip the water out. Because they are not reinforced, they won’t last forever, but looked to be sturdy enough to last several years. This village reminded us of ones we saw in Namibia, rectangular and made of sticks rather than mud walls. A nice sundowner ended the drive part of the evening.

For dinner we joined the family and their guests for a farewell barbecue. Being able to spend time with these friends who now live all over Kenya was a special experience we aren’t likely to repeat although our willingness and desire to interact with other guests usually opens us up to special conversations and experiences.

Airstrip Waiting Room

Sign explaining the elephant fences

The next morning we were greeted outside our room by a family of Stone Partridge. It took us an hour to get to the airport and our plane to the Masai Mara. Along the way, we saw a number of animals and birds although nothing new or different. The airport is actually the center of another game reserve and has a lovely waiting room with maps and posters describing the area. 

Ol Malo - A walk and breakfast al fresco

Not our mode of transportation, but it is an option

The next day was one of the most interesting of our trip. We began at 7:00 with a short drive. We saw a small tower of eight giraffes and several pair of dik-diks. Because we were going to walk, we were joined by an extra guide with a gun. He aspires to become a primary guide, is quite good with birds, and would join us for all the rest of our game drives. Our walk was a pleasant downhill trek to breakfast. We didn’t see much along the way, but were excited to see Colin waiting for us with the breakfast setup. The chef took our omelet order while we began with a fruit plate. All the while we talked to Colin about the ranch and it flora and fauna. We were joined by several birds and a couple of squirrels. As we drove back Colin told us about the time our protector had faced off with a lioness protecting a cub. Rather than kill the lion he shot over her head which stopped her. He was ready to do more, but showed a great deal of courage by not immediately going for the kill shot as she advanced on the group.

Dik-dik

Von Der Decken's Hornbill

Breakfast partner

Superb Starling, D'Arnaud's Barbet, White-browed Sparrow-weaver
also joined us for breakfast

At lunch we were joined by Colin’s daughter-in-law Chylue and some friends from school who gather every year for a reunion. They all grew up and live in Kenya although not all have chosen to be citizens. We learned that when Kenya first gained independence under President Jomo Kenyatta, wildlife protection was far from a priority. His son made several millions by selling zebra pelts; in the process killing most of  the country’s zebras. Meanwhile Kenyatta’s wife became known as the ivory queen as she focused on rhinoceros horns and elephant tusks. Needless to say, things have changed although every country in Africa has problems with poachers and a difficult future as populations increase putting more pressure on land now reserved for wildlife.

Eastern Chanting Goshawk

Reticulated Giraffe

Rosy-patched Bush-shrike

For our evening drive we stayed up on the plateau enjoying the evening light. We had some nice views of oryx and hyenas along with giraffes and gazelles. Before dinner, we spent more time talking to Chylue about life in Kenya. Among other things she told us that whites were given a choice at independence between a passport or a work permit. Her family chose to take passports, something they are quite happy about today as that gives them more permanent rights as citizens that merely having a work permit. There is a concern about health care. Her father needs an ablation for his afib, but will have to go outside to get it. He will go to England although he could go anywhere other than the US or UAE where the procedure would be too expensive.

White-rumped Helmetshrike

For dinner we were ushered up some circular stairs to a small room open to the stars. Dinner, as always, was excellent and we enjoyed sharing this beautiful spot overlooking the valley and open to the stars.