Medieval Swedish Churches - I

Vallsjö Gamla Kyrka

On our way back from Göteborg, we stopped at one interesting looking church on a hill overlooking a lake. In the evening light it seemed a beautiful setting where we could spend a few minutes enjoying the view as we toured the church grounds. I had spotted it primarily by the intriguing shape of its separate bell tower. The church turned out to be even more fascinating than we could have hoped for. Vallsjö Gamla Kyrka (Vallsjö Old Church) is one of nine medieval stone churches in the Njuding District to the west of Vetlanda where we are staying. This year the district has published a special booklet to encourage people to visit these old churches and learn about their cultural value.

The 12th century was Sweden’s first great era of church building. Christianity had really established itself in the previous century and bishops changed their role from that of missionary to diocese bishops. The Romanesque style was characterized by rounded shapes and an apse finishing the chancel. Because these churches share features found in the cathedral at Lund, scholars believe that stone workers who learned their craft working on that cathedral traveled to Smäland to become church builders in this region and others. No windows were placed on the north side of the church because the north side represented evil.

Judgement Day

The Vallsjö Gamla Kyrka is in the most beautiful setting overlooking Lake Vallsjön. From the outside, it seems to be just a simple, yet elegant, structure with a separate bell tower. Upon entering the church we quickly saw that it was much more. A large panel over the chapel door is a grotesque reminder of the battle between good and evil. The evil demons are frightening as they attack with fire and brimstone. An equally powerful painting on the ceiling portrays a Jesus bathed in light on Judgement Day. In addition, we could see a 13th century picture stone, a 17th century pulpit and 18th century benches. The organ is from the 19th century and the best preserved organ in Njudung. Like many of these old churches it was abandoned in the 19th century and left to rot. Fortunately, in 1951, it was restored and is used today during the summer.

The organ

Interior of Vallsjö Gamla Kyrka

On our last day in Vetlanda, having visited all the family spots, we decided to visit the other eight old churches. We began with Myresjö Old Church only a couple of kilometers from our hotel in Vetlanda. Built during the 12th century it was abandoned in 1819 when the bishop decided that repairs would be more costly than building a new church to replace this one and the one in nearby Lannaskede. The new church was finished in 1876 and the two old churches were left to deteriorate on their own. A painting of this church actually shows a tree growing inside it. Fortunately, Lieutenant Colonel Thomas Fogelburg and the dean Alfred Karlsson decided to save the Myresjö church. The repairs were made between 1925 and 1927 and a bell tower added. At first used only during the summer, beginning in the 1950s the church has been used for more services as well as christenings and weddings year round. It even got a new organ in the 1960s.

Myresjö Old Churchin before restoration

After restoration

The bell tower

Like most of these old churches the walls were covered with paintings. Because most of the population was illiterate, these paintings could be used to teach the parishioners Bible stories. In many cases these old paintings were covered by later, more literate, congregations, but now they are being uncovered so we can see the churches as they were meant to be seen. While they were often line drawings with little sense of perspective, they are still an important reminder of how we used to learn. Stained glass windows in later churches served the same purpose.

Of particular interest in this church are several scenes drawing parallels between the stories of the Old and New Testaments as a way to reach concordance between the two Testaments. Two picture stones have a prominent place in the church. One of them is built into the doorway. Also of interest is the baptismal font placed immediately inside the entry because non-baptised people were not allowed to enter the church. Today fonts are often placed nearer to the altar. Fonts were larger in those days, too, so that the child could be completely submerged in the water.

Rune stone built into the doorway

Baptismal font

Myresjö Old Church interior

The second church we visited was the one at Lannaskede, the other one abandoned in 1876 along with the one at Myresjö. One of Sweden’s oldest churches, Lannaskede was built in 1130. The entrance is graced by three rune stones and a piece of an old doorway. Inside are some of the best preserved wall paintings we have seen and a beautiful ceiling. The organ is from 1775 and one of the oldest still in use in Sweden. The font is also from the time the church was built. Other impressive items of the interior are the carvings on the wall, the pulpit and the altar. The bell tower was built in 1937.

The Bell Tower

Rune stone inside the church

Beautifully decorated pews in Lannaskede Church

Our third church of the day was Hjärtlanda Kyrka. Unfortunately, it was locked so we were not able to see the interior with its paintings including what looks to be a strikingly beautiful sunburst on the ceiling. Probably the most interesting item from this church is now stored at the Museum of National Antiquities in Stockholm. This is a phallic fertility symbol found in the churchyard in the 1920s. It really isn’t unusual to learn that old churches in Europe were built on the remains of older cult sites.

Hjärtlanda Kyrka

Roof replaced in 1868

Interesting outside paintings on Hjärtlanda Kyrka

From Hjärtlanda, we moved on to Gamla Hjälmseryd Kyrka for one the most interesting visits of the day. We arrived just as the noon service was beginning. We watched as a woman walked out of the church to ring the bell and a couple rushed up the path to the entrance. As they passed, the man invited us to join them. We walked in to see five older people sitting in chairs near the altar. We took a seat on a pew near the front to listen to the choral reading that lasted about ten minutes. After the first couple of lines they were joined by a strong, youthful voice from the back. He remained standing during the short service and left immediately after talking to know one. As the rest of the participants left, the gentleman stayed to chat a bit talking about the status of the this church and the Swedish church in general. This church, like the others was left to ruin and restored. Rechristened in 1934 the restoration included some beautiful new carvings by a local artist. Today, the church is owned by the parish and the Hjälmseryd foundation takes responsibility for the daily morning, noon, and evening services.

Entrance gate to Hjälmseryd Kyrka

Hjälmseryd Kyrka