Showing posts with label Åland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Åland. Show all posts

Sunday, October 7, 2018

Åland Island - Part III

The original home, once a pensionne
After breakfast, Carita picked us up to go visit Roy’s family. After a short ten minute drive we entered the driveway to be greeted by several people. Thus began another great day of family gathering. Tage was there but we were first greeted by the nieces and nephews who spoke English.

Taking notes as fast as I can
Gabi, Nicklaus, Sebastian, and Tage
We met two of Roy’s cousins, Henrik and Magnus, their wives and sons. The ten of us got to know each other a bit over a morning coffee. They were a bit disappointed that I wasn’t Roy, but were quite excited to learn about their long lost relative in America. They have been working on a family tree just like we have and loved having the information we had to share. Before we left they gave us a tour of their property which includes five or six houses, mostly used as summer houses, a boat house, three docks, a cooler dug into the ground and covered with dirt. We saw at least seven boats of various sizes, composition, and power. One boat with a metal hull they use for hunting because they can drive it right onto a rocky shore. One day we will go back, hopefully taking Roy to meet his relatives.

Magnus and Henrik and their boats


From there we returned to Carita’s winter home because the neighbor, whose house is in one of Cherie’s pictures, said we should come by and he thought he might be related to her. It was an amazing visit as he kept opening drawers and boxes to pull out more pictures and documents to share. As soon as he saw one thing, it led him to another and then another. We tried to keep up but it was a bit difficult. In the end Cherie and he decided that they were not related, but that his father or grandfather had purchased the property from her family.


This screen was used when the house served as a Russian church.

He also took us to the church in Jomala to look through the cemetery. Cherie found a number of gravestones with the correct names. The church itself is one of Åland’s most spectacular. The tall tower with its pointed spire makes it visible for miles arounds. The walls are of a beautiful stonework. They were retarring the wooden tiles on the roof. The shiny black will add sheen to the roof for some time to come before it fades.




Inside it contains several important and interesting sculptures and the partial remains of early Gothic wall paintings from the 1280s. We learned that it was extensively remodeled in the early 1800s. The description of those efforts are not complimentary as it significantly changed to layout of the church, not for the better. Dedicated to St. Olav, patron saint of Norway, the nave also boasts two votive ships, On from the late 17th century, the other from the 1950s. These ships were donated to churches by sailors looking for prayer support or in thanks for deliverance.




We decided to check out the Åland Emigrant Institute in the afternoon rather than take a drive through the country. That turned out to be a remarkable visit, too. We spent about four hours that afternoon talking to Eva and Maria. While Cherie, John, and Linda talked to Maria about Cherie’s ancestor. Cherie had just come into possession of several documents including a seaman’s book. These books were kept by each sailor. He presented it to the ship captain each time he shipped out. The captain kept the book for the voyage and wrote in his evaluation of the sailor’s work. Cherie learned that these books are fairly rare today and that while her ancestor did move up the ranks, he often received bad ratings. He also jumped ship twice and eventually applied for a new passport. And he did not die at sea. Surprising news for Cherie.

The four of us with Eva and Maria
Meanwhile I talked to Maria about Seaman’s Schools. Finland had three Seaman’s Schools that trained sailors, many of whom worked for the Russians. Finland was a part of Russia during the 19th century and Finns were most of the sailors who manned the ships during the time Russia had American outposts from Alaska to California. We also learned that Roy’s grandfather had attended the school in Vaasa before he left for America.


This jewelry shop is owned by one of the Lundgrens.
We were too late to check it out.
Dessert
After a gin and tonic at the hotel, we walked to Sentrum (the shopping street) for a stroll and dinner. We chose Dino’s Bar and Grill where again we were treated to locally sourced foods, burgers or fish and chips (with peas). For desert, we had to try the Åland pancakes. Cherie loved them. The other three of use were not so excited. They were a bit like a cake and a bit like a flan. For me, it did not have the best features of either although the stewed prunes and whipping cream added a nice sweet touch.





We saw several of these memorials to men lost at sea.
After dinner we decided to take a drive out into the country and play tourist for the evening. All of our genealogy work had kept us from doing any looking around at the rest of these beautiful islands. We drove out to the west to a ferry dock near Eckerö. On the way back we visited two other churches one attached to Eckerö and the other attached to Hammarland, although both were by themselves out in the country. These two churches were quite similar, made of stones plastered together. Pyramids top the towers. Because we were in the evening we were unable to go inside. But walking the cemeteries and seeing the beautiful churches in the late evening sun was a good way to finish the day.

Our ship heading to Stockholm


Friday, October 5, 2018

Åland Island - Part II



Today was one of those fabulous travel days that make it all worthwhile. And I say that even though we travel up to 180 days in a year and never have a bad day. Today was one of the best.

Carita's husband Lief
Cherie has ancestors here who had communicated with America not long ago. Cherie wrote a letter to that address and whoever might be living there now. The response and followup conversations led to the current resident Carita showing us around the island and helping both of us find out more about ancestors. Cherie learned a lot because Carita is living on the property her relatives inhabited.

The book has pictures and descriptions of every house on the islands.
It's like an illustrated census.

Carita is an absolutely divine individual. She loves life and everything about it. She laughs a lot and the only time she isn’t smiling is when she is thinking about how to help us find more information about our relatives. She gave us a bit of a tour and took us to her winter home where she perused Cherie’s documents, translated several of them, and managed to get her husband Leif and friend Folke to come by to help even more. In the process of all that Leif set up a meeting with a relative of my brother-in-law Roy for tomorrow. Carita will meet us, take us there, and help by translating since Tage speaks no English.

Every hour the bridge opens saving hours for each boat.

The old hand-operated bridge now part of the park.
As we approached noon, we left that house to do a bit of touristing at the Lemland Canal. Built by the Russians during their occupation of Finland, it cut several hours off the transit from one side of the island to another. Today it is a beautiful park highlighted by the hourly opening of the canal to large boats. The old hand-operated bridge is still there, too. After removing it, they made it part of the park.





From there, Carita took us to her summer home which is one of the most beautiful places to live we have seen. She has created a beautiful garden landscape with several places to relax and contemplate nature. We sat for a couple of hours on her deck enjoying beer, coffee, and cheese and crackers. Over the 2-3 hours we talked about nearly everything including the meaning of life and how to enjoy it.




When Leif came home from work (He owns an auto mechanic shop), we had a couple more beers before Clarita took us back to our hotel. For dinner we drove down to Åss Restaurant on the water where we had another great meal featuring local items.. I don’t think we have had anything other than excellence in dining every time we have dined out this trip. We must be doing something right.

A busy restaurant on a lovely summer evening.

Tomorrow Carita will help us with our visit to Tage Johansen, Roy’s relative, and then we will take a longer drive around the island.

Thursday, October 4, 2018

Åland Island - Part I

A few of the islands in the Åland Archipelago
Our ferry ride from Turku to Mariehamm on Åland Island was uneventful until we left the ship. It is a beautiful ride on a bright sunny day through the Åland Archipelago. It’s impossible not to be impressed with the beauty of this part of the world.

Early morning and quite a few are enjoying a beer with the view
We left Turku at 8:45, right on time. Even before we left as I toured the ship, the bar was open and people were downing their first beers of the voyage. Probably several more to come over the next five hours. Ships plying international waters tend to have decent prices for booze, but this route, in particular, thrives on cheap prices.


We had read about travelers from Sweden and Finland who take advantage of this rather short trip to stock up on their liquor supply, but we took that with a grain of salt until we actually arrived at Mariehamm. People were leaving the ship with travel handtrucks loaded with cases of beer. Others had brought their largest suitcases to fill up. I saw one young man with wine bottles in his rear jeans pockets.

The larger crowd in back is headed back to Finland.
The six walking my way are getting off here.
There were about 20 of us altogether.
Some did stay on continuing to Stockholm.
Even with that, the biggest surprise was as we left the ship. We tied up at Mariehamm at the same moment as the ship traveling from Stockholm to Turku. As we left the ship, the sign read Turku pointing right and Mariehamm pointing right. Almost everyone turned left. They were immediately returning to Turku. Meanwhile the crowd from the Stockholm ship was moving to board our ship which was continuing on to Stockholm. I’m sure the next part of each voyage was much more interesting for all concerned.

Åland has its own flag
As we entered the actual terminal, we met the car rental agent who had John fill out the paperwork right there. No waiting in line or looking for an office. Turning in the car will be even easier as we drop off the car in its parking spot next to the terminal, walk 100 feet or so to check in while dropping the keys in the drop box. It will never get any easier than this. This would have been fine if John had remembered to actually drop the key in the box on our way through the terminal. Fortunately we were early enough that he could leave the boat to get the key where it needed to be.

The Cikada Hotel
Not everything is up to date. This is a real rotary phone.
The Swedish Consulate across from the Cikada
Our hotel is about three blocks from the terminal with another easy check in. The Cikada is an older hotel where Cherie’s aunt stayed on her visit here 50 years ago. It has a nice pool and restaurant for dinner and breakfast. The gin and tonic after we settled in eased us into the evening.



Cherie had researched Åland and suggested eating at the airport which is supposed to have very good food. We drove out there and learned that it has very limited hours timed to the arrival and departure times of the airlines. Today, dinner hours were 4-5 pm, too early for us. We were there at 5:20.

The brewery had several sculptures on the property
Our second choice turned out to be an excellent one. Stallhagen brewpub is a bit of a drive out of town, but worth the 15 minutes it took to get there. This night they were having a special BBQ dinner with a variety of salads and meats. Together with their excellent beers, we had a nice dinner inside their dining room. All the outdoor seats had been reserved, but with today’s heat we were just as happy to be inside. I had a honey beer to start which was light, but flavorful and very refreshing. Just the right touch for a hot summer afternoon. Following that I tried their IPA which tasted just like home. John had a red ale that he liked.

The main church in Mariehamm, Åland's capital and largest city.
Early the next morning I wandered around town a bit before we met Carita for our special tour of the island as we looked for Cherie's ancestral home. You may notice that most of the houses lack doors facing the street. I never did learn why.