Showing posts with label Finland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Finland. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 23, 2018

Searching for an Ancestral Past

The Myking Church
While the Hurtigruten Ferry was the catalyst for this trip, it has been much more about finding ancestral roots. Linda and I started in Norway before the ferry ride looking for places her family had lived in the wilds around Bergen. We were fairly successful with some help from Ancestry.com, Linda’s cousin Jerry and his wife Joni, and the kindness of our Airbnb host who set us up with her father who remembered the names of places where people lived. With that we were able to get a good look at a few of those locations before heading off to our ferry cruise on the Hurtigruten. We left information with him and another stranger we met nearby with hopes that they will get back to us with more information.

The extent of farmland in Fjordland
Naevda Farm
A water world
The land is good for sheep
We also took a drive to Vik where we had tours of two churches connected to Cherie’s family. We took some pictures and hope to join them when they head that way in the next few years.

The Hove Stone Church
Hove Gravestones
Then after some time exploring southern Finland, we took the ferry to Åland Island. Cherie had made contact with someone living on property that her aunt had corresponded with. Fortunately, the woman living there today responded to Cherie’s letter and invited us to visit her. Cherie learned a lot about her family and left documents with Carlita who promised to translate them. Her husband also set us up to meet relatives of my brother-in-law Roy through an address he still had. That was the most exciting part of the trip. When we arrived at that address, we were met by two families anxious to meet us and although they were disappointed we were not the actual relatives. Even so, they entertained us with pictures and memories. We left with promises to continue the communication and visit again. We finished our stay in Åland with a visit to the Emigrant Institute where we spent a lively afternoon with the two women in charge. Among other things we learned that many of the papers Cherie had saved when her sister passed are rare and have real historical value beyond what they will teach her about her family. We also learned a lot about the context of emigration from Åland Islands which helped us understand more about the emigration of our ancestors.

Fun with paper at Carita's winter home
Roy's family
At the Åland Emigrant Institute
Then after a few days in Stockholm, Linda and I headed off to Vetlanda, a small city of about 10,000 where my grandmother was born. We already had a lot of details about the family here because she and a few others of her generation had written about the family as their contribution to the American Bicentennial in 1976. We don’t have any names or addresses of current relatives living in Sweden, so we did not expect any kind of a reunion as we had experienced on Åland Island, but we did want to explore the area and see what we could of the land where they had lived. With one possible exception, the only buildings remaining from that time are churches and even some of the have been replaced in the intervening years. The possible exception is a root cellar. The pictures look like it could be the same, but there isn’t a lot of difference among root cellars, so we can’t be sure. We did have a good time driving around the area, visiting two marvelous Emigrant Museums in Göteborg and Växjö, and looking at the amazing variety of churches the Swedes have built. There have been times on previous trips to Europe when we did tire of visiting churches and cathedrals, but on this trip, the only times a church disappointed us was when they were closed and we could not get inside. Outside and in, the amazing variety and beauty of even the smallest of these churches continues to amaze as the number we have visited approaches 20.

Vetlanda Lutheran Church
The stone fence
Root cellar - perhaps used by my ancestors
Linda pointed out that it is a bit ironic that on this trip, the person who learned the most about their past and was able to make actual personal connections is the person who wasn’t even there. Nevertheless, we were all excited with what we did learn and we all are leaving Scandinavia with the promise to return and spend more time in this stunningly beautiful region of the world.

Sunday, October 7, 2018

Åland Island - Part III

The original home, once a pensionne
After breakfast, Carita picked us up to go visit Roy’s family. After a short ten minute drive we entered the driveway to be greeted by several people. Thus began another great day of family gathering. Tage was there but we were first greeted by the nieces and nephews who spoke English.

Taking notes as fast as I can
Gabi, Nicklaus, Sebastian, and Tage
We met two of Roy’s cousins, Henrik and Magnus, their wives and sons. The ten of us got to know each other a bit over a morning coffee. They were a bit disappointed that I wasn’t Roy, but were quite excited to learn about their long lost relative in America. They have been working on a family tree just like we have and loved having the information we had to share. Before we left they gave us a tour of their property which includes five or six houses, mostly used as summer houses, a boat house, three docks, a cooler dug into the ground and covered with dirt. We saw at least seven boats of various sizes, composition, and power. One boat with a metal hull they use for hunting because they can drive it right onto a rocky shore. One day we will go back, hopefully taking Roy to meet his relatives.

Magnus and Henrik and their boats


From there we returned to Carita’s winter home because the neighbor, whose house is in one of Cherie’s pictures, said we should come by and he thought he might be related to her. It was an amazing visit as he kept opening drawers and boxes to pull out more pictures and documents to share. As soon as he saw one thing, it led him to another and then another. We tried to keep up but it was a bit difficult. In the end Cherie and he decided that they were not related, but that his father or grandfather had purchased the property from her family.


This screen was used when the house served as a Russian church.

He also took us to the church in Jomala to look through the cemetery. Cherie found a number of gravestones with the correct names. The church itself is one of Åland’s most spectacular. The tall tower with its pointed spire makes it visible for miles arounds. The walls are of a beautiful stonework. They were retarring the wooden tiles on the roof. The shiny black will add sheen to the roof for some time to come before it fades.




Inside it contains several important and interesting sculptures and the partial remains of early Gothic wall paintings from the 1280s. We learned that it was extensively remodeled in the early 1800s. The description of those efforts are not complimentary as it significantly changed to layout of the church, not for the better. Dedicated to St. Olav, patron saint of Norway, the nave also boasts two votive ships, On from the late 17th century, the other from the 1950s. These ships were donated to churches by sailors looking for prayer support or in thanks for deliverance.




We decided to check out the Åland Emigrant Institute in the afternoon rather than take a drive through the country. That turned out to be a remarkable visit, too. We spent about four hours that afternoon talking to Eva and Maria. While Cherie, John, and Linda talked to Maria about Cherie’s ancestor. Cherie had just come into possession of several documents including a seaman’s book. These books were kept by each sailor. He presented it to the ship captain each time he shipped out. The captain kept the book for the voyage and wrote in his evaluation of the sailor’s work. Cherie learned that these books are fairly rare today and that while her ancestor did move up the ranks, he often received bad ratings. He also jumped ship twice and eventually applied for a new passport. And he did not die at sea. Surprising news for Cherie.

The four of us with Eva and Maria
Meanwhile I talked to Maria about Seaman’s Schools. Finland had three Seaman’s Schools that trained sailors, many of whom worked for the Russians. Finland was a part of Russia during the 19th century and Finns were most of the sailors who manned the ships during the time Russia had American outposts from Alaska to California. We also learned that Roy’s grandfather had attended the school in Vaasa before he left for America.


This jewelry shop is owned by one of the Lundgrens.
We were too late to check it out.
Dessert
After a gin and tonic at the hotel, we walked to Sentrum (the shopping street) for a stroll and dinner. We chose Dino’s Bar and Grill where again we were treated to locally sourced foods, burgers or fish and chips (with peas). For desert, we had to try the Åland pancakes. Cherie loved them. The other three of use were not so excited. They were a bit like a cake and a bit like a flan. For me, it did not have the best features of either although the stewed prunes and whipping cream added a nice sweet touch.





We saw several of these memorials to men lost at sea.
After dinner we decided to take a drive out into the country and play tourist for the evening. All of our genealogy work had kept us from doing any looking around at the rest of these beautiful islands. We drove out to the west to a ferry dock near Eckerö. On the way back we visited two other churches one attached to Eckerö and the other attached to Hammarland, although both were by themselves out in the country. These two churches were quite similar, made of stones plastered together. Pyramids top the towers. Because we were in the evening we were unable to go inside. But walking the cemeteries and seeing the beautiful churches in the late evening sun was a good way to finish the day.

Our ship heading to Stockholm


Friday, October 5, 2018

Åland Island - Part II



Today was one of those fabulous travel days that make it all worthwhile. And I say that even though we travel up to 180 days in a year and never have a bad day. Today was one of the best.

Carita's husband Lief
Cherie has ancestors here who had communicated with America not long ago. Cherie wrote a letter to that address and whoever might be living there now. The response and followup conversations led to the current resident Carita showing us around the island and helping both of us find out more about ancestors. Cherie learned a lot because Carita is living on the property her relatives inhabited.

The book has pictures and descriptions of every house on the islands.
It's like an illustrated census.

Carita is an absolutely divine individual. She loves life and everything about it. She laughs a lot and the only time she isn’t smiling is when she is thinking about how to help us find more information about our relatives. She gave us a bit of a tour and took us to her winter home where she perused Cherie’s documents, translated several of them, and managed to get her husband Leif and friend Folke to come by to help even more. In the process of all that Leif set up a meeting with a relative of my brother-in-law Roy for tomorrow. Carita will meet us, take us there, and help by translating since Tage speaks no English.

Every hour the bridge opens saving hours for each boat.

The old hand-operated bridge now part of the park.
As we approached noon, we left that house to do a bit of touristing at the Lemland Canal. Built by the Russians during their occupation of Finland, it cut several hours off the transit from one side of the island to another. Today it is a beautiful park highlighted by the hourly opening of the canal to large boats. The old hand-operated bridge is still there, too. After removing it, they made it part of the park.





From there, Carita took us to her summer home which is one of the most beautiful places to live we have seen. She has created a beautiful garden landscape with several places to relax and contemplate nature. We sat for a couple of hours on her deck enjoying beer, coffee, and cheese and crackers. Over the 2-3 hours we talked about nearly everything including the meaning of life and how to enjoy it.




When Leif came home from work (He owns an auto mechanic shop), we had a couple more beers before Clarita took us back to our hotel. For dinner we drove down to Åss Restaurant on the water where we had another great meal featuring local items.. I don’t think we have had anything other than excellence in dining every time we have dined out this trip. We must be doing something right.

A busy restaurant on a lovely summer evening.

Tomorrow Carita will help us with our visit to Tage Johansen, Roy’s relative, and then we will take a longer drive around the island.