Cycle Oregon

Here is our itinerary for the Africa trip.


Those of you who are friends or blog followers since our first trip to South Africa in 2012 know that I spend a lot of time on my bicycle and did the week long Cycle Oregon ride last September. You can read about that again here in the blog by using the links to the right. 



Shopping for souvenirs or forgotten items

Cycle Oregon is an absolutely amazing organization. They claim to offer the “Best Ride in America” and I cannot disagree after participating once and talking to others who have done other state rides including RAGBRAI in Iowa where this craze all started. Two things set Cycle Oregon apart.

You may not want to read all of what follows, but I think it is important to share the reasons I think that Cycle Oregon has earned the right to claim to be the “Best Ride in America.” I have divided it into two categories: Logistical Support and Community Relations. I have not ridden enough of these rides to be an expert, but in talking to riders who have done other similar rides, I heard of nothing that comes close to Cycle Oregon when we consider all that it does.  

Logistical Support

First is the logistical support. Some do little more than set up a route and provide a camping place and support vehicles including the carrying of your gear. While this is a lot, providing for your own meals can make it difficult to even find a seat in a local restaurant. One couple I met who had done the Colorado ride said their method was to stop and eat dinner before setting up camp. That way they avoided all the lines even though it meant an early dinner each day. Over 90% of the RAGBRAI riders aren’t even official riders. They just tag along with their own sag wagon and their own arrangements for hotels or camping spots. With thousands of extra riders, this requires extensive planning ahead. My friend Steve who has ridden RAGBRAI twice has a friend to reserves hotel rooms along every likely routes each to assure that his group has a place to stay. 

Tents and chairs all ready when we arrive - provided we pay extra

 Cycle Oregon, on the other hand, does everything. The logistics of doing this amounts to emulating the old circus trains that set up for the circus in a new town every day. With 2200 riders and over 100 support people, it is like setting up a small city. Setting up near Diamond last summer included drilling a new, larger well for a farmer who let us stay on his land. The area around Diamond is so far removed from any significant town that it is considered one of the best star-gazing sites in the country. However, the two nights we stayed there with guests from OMSI’s star-gazing club, we were unable to even see the Milky Way from horizon to horizon there was so much light from our camp. It was still a good evening of star-gazing, but not like it would be had we been alone. 

Music at the water break

A beautiful ending to a beautiful day

Cycle Oregon hires four or five different bands each day. One will play at the lunch stop and the others will begin performing about 4:00 in the afternoon so there is continuous music until lights out at 10:00. Occasionally even the rest stops have music. Widmer Beer and Eola Hills winery are open for libations and relaxation each afternoon and evening. Bike Gallery deserves thanks on an atmospheric level for the mechanical support they offer. Every rest stop (usually five each day) will have one or two of their mechanics available for needs during the ride. At camp, ten mechanics will tend to just about every need you might have asking only donations and money for any parts. They do all this at their own expense. With 2200 riders, many of whom are not as prepared as they should be, this means that they will be working until 10:00 pm or later each evening. 

One of the SAG wagons. Notice the sign warning drivers

Other support includes EMT services at most of the rest stops along the way. Cycle Oregon arranges with the Milwaukie, Oregon, police for two of their motorcycle police to accompany the riders along with two other motorcyclists who ride their own cycles. Sag wagons continually drive the route as well to pick up any riders unable to finish the ride for the day. Massage therapists and yoga leaders are popular with many of the riders to get rid of those sore muscles that come from many hours in the saddle. Showers are available in some amazing shower trucks – 16 showers in a semi-truck trailer using solar heated water and including washbasins outside for those morning things we do. 

Community Relations 

The second reason Cycle Oregon is set apart is what they do along with the rides. One of the major goals from the beginning has been to connect riders with all parts of the state. For Cycle Oregon, this is more than just setting up camps along the route. They make a concerted effort to involve the people of each community in the planning and activities at each location. Volunteers from each community work at the rest stops and the camps to facilitate every aspect of the ride. Cycle Oregon then donates to the helping groups. Riders then get the opportunity to meet people at each stop and talk about the things that are happening in that community. At one stop near Burns, I chatted with a member of the American Association of University Women who was excited that this would provide more funds to help pay for local girls attending college. 

These two girls made a lot of money selling lemonade

Each year Cycle Oregon provides about $130,000 to the communities that host the riders. Some of this is employment of local bands and other providers. Some of it is in the money that riders spend in the communities directly. In Burns last September, every bar and restaurant in town was packed the night we stayed there. When I returned for the bird festival in March, most of them were closed, some permanently. Some of it is the money that riders pay people to carry their bags to the camping sites. Since the bags weigh up to 70 pounds each and it can be a rather long walk, this is much appreciated. Often the football and wrestling teams will provide this service with the $1-$5 tips going to support those programs. Finally, Cycle Oregon places all their proceeds into a fund which provides grants to the local communities. Most of the grants are in the $5000-$10,000 range. As one example, the Crane High School used some the money they raised to purchase new wrestling mats and volleyball uniforms. 

One of a series of special welcome signs

Cycle Oregon also supports bicycling initiatives around the state. One of their current projects is the creation of a dedicated bicycle path between Portland and the Coast. Cycle Oregon gave $100,000 to help jump start this project. 

All of this effort means that the communities are excited to be on the Cycle Oregon route. When I was in Burns for that birding festival, the leader of the local Chamber of Commerce told me that she wants to have Cycle Oregon come through once every five years. I don’t know that she will get the ride that often, but it just shows how welcome Cycle Oregon is – something that is pretty amazing considering the disruption that 2200 bicycle riders can be in the towns and on the roads in communities that are often not even half that size.

Cycle Oregon Weekend (Saturday)

Here is our itinerary for the Africa trip.

The weekend ride is a family affair. The CO leaders wanted to do something that would enable families to enjoy the same experiences as the week-long Cycle Oregon without having to make the same commitment in terms of time or training. Each of the weekend rides has three levels so riders can choose the one that best fits their training and expertise. For the littlest ones, there is a “Cycle Camp” of activities that entertain the children while teaching them safety and riding techniques. Certainly some of the older riders would benefit from the safety lessons. The weekend is located in a college town where dormitories are available for those families or individuals who don’t want the actual camping experience.

This year location was Linfield College in McMinnville. Linda drove me over on Friday night and helped me get settled for the evening. I rented a tent for the two nights instead of setting up my own so I could easily join Linda at Hotel Oregon when we finished on Sunday. She would be spending the weekend in Seattle with Stanford friends at a performance of Gilbert and Sullivan’s “The Mikado.” Since I would be done long before she returned, I would ride my bicycle to the hotel with all my stuff. Having to carry a tent, too, seemed like too much.

Rather than have dinner at the school, we chose to join her brother who was down from Everett for the weekend to help with Special Olympics at George Fox College in Newburg. He has been doing this for several years now and it was fun to get to see him and meet some of his fellow volunteers over a burger and beer. He shared that Cycle Oregon had put extra pressure on hotel rooms in the area making it harder for some of the Special Olympic families to find rooms. I guess for some riders even staying in a dorm was too rustic.

Saturday’s ride traveled west and south from McMinnville. Riders could choose from routes of 16, 43, or 73 miles. The two shorter roads were essentially flat, but the longer ride still only had two hills about 1.5 miles each. The second one included a 9% grade and a false summit. A few did choose to walk that section. The scenery was great and the weather was fine except that it seemed to get very hot for the last ten miles after the final rest stop. The headwind and rougher road didn’t help any. Fortunately, very little of the ride actually had us on Highway 18. Riding the backroads is a lot more fun.

 

My favorite part of the scenery was the many different wheat and grass fields. We passed fully grown wheat ready for mowing, wheat that had been mowed, wheat that had been mowed and raked, wheat that had been baled, and grass seed fields that had been chopped up and spewed out. I’m not sure how that grass seed thing works, but there it was. We also passed fields of corn, squash, vegetables, and potatoes along with a number of vineyards. At one stop a couple of young boys were selling lemonade taking advantage of the heat and a captive audience.

Upon arrival back at the school, a Schwann’s truck was handing out ice cream cones as we finished. In the evening we were entertained by a country rock music group and a parade of the Kid’s camp bikers who were excited to perform their new skills and the decorations they had created. Beer and music finished off the day nicely.

Cycle Oregon Weekend (Sunday)

Here is our itinerary for the Africa trip.

Sunday was a very different ride. As we traveled south and east from McMinnville we were joined by a good thunderstorm and several strong showers. Fortunately, the lightning kept moving away from where I was and the weather was warm enough that the rain didn’t create a chill. Expecting summer Willamette Valley heat I had not brought any kind of rain gear although I doubt that a jacket would have been a good idea given the warmth. Not everyone was so lucky with the lightning. Maelynn told me that one flash hit close enough that her group felt the tingles.

Wine Tent on the Right

Today the rides were 12, 37, or 52 miles with only one minor hill of less than a mile. We passed several wineries and were pleased to have our lunch stop at Hauer of the Dauer Winery south of Dayton. They set up a tent where we could taste their wines and make purchases. I enjoyed the tastings, but since I would already be loaded down for the ride to the hotel, I passed on buying anything. They did have a couple of interesting whites that I will take Linda back to try on another day. 

Lunch at Hauer of the Dauen Winery

Schwann’s was again waiting at the finish with ice cream although it wasn’t quite as welcome as it had been in the heat yesterday. I gathered my stuff together and loaded my bicycle before returning to the common area where I planned to enjoy a beer and a bit of music before leaving. My friends Maelynn and Bob Anderson offered me a ride to the hotel, but I declined thinking that the couple of miles I had to ride were not worth the effort of loading into their truck. Then, just as I was ready to leave it started to rain again. I hid the bike under an overhang and found myself eating a slice of pizza from a Scappoose couple that only does events. They once had a pizzeria, but find doing events easier and more interesting.  They allowed me to share their tent as I enjoyed their pizza and a beer waiting out the rain. Twenty minutes later I was on my way.

The sunny rest stop we had hoped for

Happily, my room was ready when I arrived so I was able to get into the shower and head up to the rooftop bar where I would enjoy a beer or two while waiting for Linda. Like most of the McMenamin’s properties, this one is an eclectic mix of history and fun illustrated by paintings and photographs in the hallways and anywhere else they can fit. The rooms are all named after local figures, most of whom had some connection with the hotel over the years. Of course, several commemorate the UFO sighting celebrated with a big party once a year. We got to peruse most of it as we filled out our passports and settled in for the evening. I hadn’t realized that the upper floors had not been finished until McMenamin’s took the place over a decade ago. We had dinner at La Rambla, one of our favorite tapas restaurants anywhere. Give it a try if you have not done so before. They offer carry out which one day we will do and lunch at one of the wineries – probably Torii Morr because we like their wines and they have a beautiful deck overlooking the valley. 

Monday, we visited the Air Museum just outside of McMinnville. We had driven by many times on our way to the beach but never stopped. Getting to walk inside Howard Hughes’s Spruce Goose is worth the price of admission by itself, but it is surrounded by dozens more planes each with its own story. We didn’t have time to visit the second building and opted to avoid spending more time in the heat of the afternoon and skipped the several planes outside. 

I look forward to a similar weekend next year and perhaps a couple more nights in Hotel Oregon or perhaps we will go to their refurbished Masonic Lodge in Forest Grove.

Newport, Oregon

We have decided that Newport is our favorite town on the Oregon Coast. While there are other candidates, they each have something that takes away from its appeal. Yachats, Waldport, Florence, Coos Bay, Bandon, and Brookings all have their appeal, but anyplace south of Newport is just too far away and none of them have the size or appeal anyway.

Our favorite place to actually stay on the coast is the Worldmark just north of Depoe Bay. Boiler Bay just north of the Worldmark and Depot Bay itself offer two of the best ocean viewing spots on the coast. A few years ago we watched three whales cavorting within just a few feet of the shoreline of Depoe Bay. They were so close I was worried they might get stuck. Meanwhile, the units at Worldmark all overlook the ocean with only a few feet of grass to divide us from the Cliffside. Even so, Depoe Bay is just too small for my taste.

Many people like Lincoln City, but it has always seemed like the perfect place for the outlet mall because Lincoln City is really just one long strip mall anyway. They do have some good restaurants, blues venues, a small local theater and an arts center so we do like being close, but otherwise it is just a long drive through an otherwise beautiful section of coastline.

We love Pelican Brewpub in Pacific City which has been named best brewpub in the country on more than one occasion and has had several of its brews named as best of the year. Situated right on the sandy beach by Pacific City’s Haystack Rock, the pub offers great viewing while drinking and eating. One winter we were entertained by a local trying unsuccessfully to dig his four-wheel drive pickup out of the sand proving, I guess, that even the locals don’t know everything about driving on the beach. But other than the brewpub, a couple of restaurants, and two top-notch art stores, there just isn’t much there either.

Further north, Cannon Beach is nice, but a bit pretentious. Seaside is great for families, but won’t ever lose that schlocky aura that every coast line needs. Astoria is doing a great job of refurbishing and rebuilding from its heyday as a fishing port and has enough to be attractive to cruise ships on their way to and from Alaska.

That leaves Newport which is close enough to be easily accessible from the Portland/Vancouver area and has more to offer on its own than any of the alternatives. Newport starts with its great old town area. This is still a working waterfront with two fish processing plants mixed in with the shops and restaurants along the same waterfront street.

Fish processing plants on the right

The fishing fleet

Over 100 memorial markers line the sidewalk

Wander up and down the street and you will pass by several art stores ranging from touristy knick-knacks to the truly artistic. You can visit a wax museum or look at life under the water. You can stop for lunch at two different Mo’s, famous for its chowder, or eat at some much nicer restaurants and pay for that, too.

Mo's is nestled between the processors

Believe it or Not and the Wax Museum

 We always spend Saturday night at the Rogue Public House for trivia night. Bill has been hosting this weekly event since the pub opened almost 25 years ago. The questions are challenging and he gives our enough prizes so that everyone wins something. Last time we were there, we won a $19 certificate good on any clothing item. I got a new bicycle jersey.

The Rogue Public House

One of the several old tavern and restaurant buildings

Across the Yaquina River Bridge which they have finally finished refurbishing is the Oregon Coast Aquarium, the Mark O. Hatfield Marine Science Center, NOAA’s main office in the Northwest, and Rogue Brewery’s head offices, brewery, and distillery. The aquarium is big enough to have an underwater walkway which they crafted after Keiko (remember Free Willy) was sent back into the wilds of the North Atlantic. Of course, they also have the requisite otters, seals, sea lions, and sea bird exhibits which are always fun.

The view from our window

Newport has another fun neighborhood at Nye Beach. Nye Beach overlooks the ocean instead of the Bay and is high on a cliff providing good distant views. What used to be a couple of old hotels and restaurants has in recent years been remade into an eclectic mix of restaurants, shops, and performing arts center. The most interesting hotel has been and continues to be the Sylvia Beach Hotel where each room is based on an author. We have never stayed there, but people who have extol the atmosphere which includes no television, telephone, or Wi-fi. The small restaurant continues the theme. Food is served family-style at tables for eight and is enjoyed by locals along with the hotel guests. See for yourself at http://sylviabeachhotel.com.

One of my joys of staying in Newport is the great choices for a bicycle ride. Even though it is touted as one of the great touring rides in the country, not all of the Oregon Coast Highway is really suited for bicycles. However, the roads north and south from Newport (other than crossing the bridge which I will walk across thank you) are wide, include some good hills, and the vehicles are accommodating. The road between Newport and Salishan includes the Otter Crest bypass where I have yet to meet any other cars. Something easier with less traffic is the road along Yaquina Bay to Toledo.

Beaver Creek Natural Area

I first visited this relatively new wildlife area shortly after it opened three years ago just 15 minutes south of Newport. They had a special tour for Migratory Bird Day that looked like it would be a fun early morning bird walk (I should say hike because we hiked about five miles with a fair amount of climbing thrown in for good measure.) We did see plenty of birds, but because we didn’t get started until 9:00 we were really too late to get much out of the flycatchers and warblers that frequent the area in spring.  

We found over two dozen species just walking around the parking lot

What really impressed me however, was what is right there at the visitor center. The center is on a hill overlooking Beaver Creek with a view of the Coast Range in the distance. An osprey nest perches on a tower in the distance. A short easy trail leads down to the creek and several bird feeders hang close to the center’s deck. Half a dozen swallow nest boxes are fully utilized by the tree swallows. This year our annual week at the beach again coincided with Migratory Bird Day. This year all the area’s birding sites hosted something related to the day. Beaver Creek again offered a bird walk and this year it started at 7:00 so we would be early enough to get the morning birds.

Mom and Dad finishing the nest.

We hung out at the visitor center for the first 45 minutes because that area was so productive. Counting the Osprey parent and chicks on the distant tower, the Mallard family on the creek, and the Cackling Geese flying overhead we saw 27 species without leaving the parking lot.

Osprey in the distance

Two of these were big rarities for me: the Swainson’s Thrush and the Hermit Warbler. Other birds I haven’t seen very often include Wrentit,  Purple Finch and Western Tanager. Other notables include Band-tailed Pigeon, Black-headed Grosbeak, Anna’s and Rufous Hummingbirds, and Marsh Wren.

Purple Finch

Once we had exhausted the area around the visitor center, we walked down the road to the creek where we walked a short way on the trail that leads up into the hills. Without rubber boots we were not able to go far, but we did see several birds there as well including the Common Yellowthroat, Wilson’s Warbler and Marsh Wren. The Wilson’s Warbler accommodated us very nicely by posing on the telephone wire along the road. We also heard a Virginia Rail.

Wilson's Warbler

Since I had not brought my long lens for the walk, I returned two days later. The center doesn’t open until noon, but I was able to park at the creek and walk up to the visitor center and take pictures. The sun cooperated nicely. This is an excellent spot for some morning pictures. While I did not see all the same birds, I was able to add Evening Grosbeak and Cedar Waxwing to the list from Saturday’s viewing.

Anna's Hummingbird

Evening Grosbeak

Birds Seen: Cackling Goose, Mallard, Great Blue Heron,Turkey Vulture, Osprey, Virginia Rail, Band-tailed Pigeon, Mourning Dove, Anna's Hummingbird, Rufous Hummingbird, Steller's Jay, American Crow, Tree Swallow, wallow, Marsh Wren, Wrentit, Swainson's Thrush, American Robin, Orange-crowned Warbler, Common Yellowthroat, Hermit Warbler, Wilson's Warbler, Spotted Towhee, Cedar Waxwing, Song Sparrow, White-crowned Sparrow, Golden-crowned Sparrow, Western Tanager, Evening Grosbeak, Black-headed Grosbeak, Red-winged Blackbird, Brown-headed Cowbird, Purple Finch, American Goldfinch

 

The Silvies River Flood Plain

Irrigation Canal with a flooded field in the background

The Silvies River provides the irrigation water for the Burns area as it flows into Malheur Lake. Most of the fields are flooded providing great habitat for ducks, geese, and shorebirds. When I first saw all the flooded fields, I assume it was just a high water table after the spring rains. I was wrong. Their preferred method of irrigation here is to flood the fields in the spring which will hopefully provide enough moisture to last the season. A few farmers have put in pivot irrigation systems, but the wildlife experts are hoping that this does not become the norm as pivot systems do not provide habitat for water fowl.

No one was sure, but we assume the large size means goose eggs. This was right next to the highway.

This tour took us around the neighborhood, so to speak. We drove in all four directions from Burns never more than about ten miles from the city center. We saw many of the flooded fields, some for the second or third time. But since the birds move around every view is different.

We started the day with spectacular views of thousands of Ross’s geese along with a few late-leaving snow geese. While most of the snow geese had already headed for northern Alaska, the Ross’s geese were all headed to northern Canada. Those snow geese remaining may stay here all summer. At least two were injured and probably unable to make the flight. For them, the summer months will be difficult as they must evade the coyotes and raptors without the flock as protection.

Today, we did stop to see the owl and had some good looks at both Mom and Dad. Mom was lying across the nest while Dad was just sitting in the tree a few feet below waiting. Both were waiting for the night hours when the hunting would be better.

Look close to see Mom lying across the nest.

Today was the best day for shorebirds as we saw everything we expected to see including long-billed curlews, black-necked stilts, willets, white-faced ibis, long-billed dowitchers and even a few killdeer. Most of the good birds were too far away for good pictures, but I did get a few. The long-billed curlew is an amazing bird with a bill about 1/3 of its body length. Some of them reach ten inches as this is one of the larger shorebirds anyway.

Long-billed Dowitcher

Black-necked stilts in flight

We ended the day driving along some desert landscape where we were able to our first sage thrasher and a loggerhead shrike. Shrikes have a hooked beak giving them a sinister look. They are best known for storing their insect kills on thorns. We did not see any of this today, but I have seen it other places. It is a bit disconcerting to see this and think about the bird’s mind that came up with such a gruesome storage plan.

The tour ended at noon so I ventured back downtown for one last meal before heading on the back roads to Sun River where I would spend the night before returning home and getting Linda at the airport as she returned from her San Diego girls’ weekend. 

Fort Rock

I made one stop at Fort Rock to see what raptors might be visible there. I had passed a golden eagle nest a few miles earlier and managed to add three bald eagles and a pair of prairie falcons to my list for the day. I was surprised to see rock pigeons there too. These are the same birds that populate our city streets and were the subject of one beautiful song from Mary Poppins. London no longer allows their feeding in Trafalgar Square. Fort Rock looks like a huge fort from a distance but is really an extinct volcano that rises 325 feet above the plain. Prehistoric artifacts over 9000 years old have been found in some of the caves that were inhabited on the interior of the ‘fort’.

British Birding at the Malheur Field Station

On Saturday, I joined six others for a day of “Birding British Style.” I’m not exactly sure what this really means other than that Duncan Evered, our guide, was born and raised in Britain but has spent the last 17 years at the Malheur Field Station where he has honed his birding skills and knowledge. Then we stopped for lunch at his home at the Field Station where he served us tea and Marmite on toast. Marmite, a salty by-product of beer brewing, is a yeast extract spread used on toast and sandwiches. We agreed that while Marmite is edible, it is not going to be a part of our daily food intake.

View from the Malheur Field Station

The Field Station was built during the Kennedy-Johnson era for the Job Corps. Today, it is a non-profit that provides workshops on all aspects of the region’s geography and biology. In addition, Duncan offers a special workshop exploring the relationship between the landscape and the music it inspires. His wife Lyla offers an outdoor painting workshop. The walls of the building where we ate lunch are covered with many of her paintings. Several of these are triptychs where each panel is painting during a different part of the day creating a fascinating look at the changing light patterns in the high desert.

Harney Lake - part of the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge

View from the Malheur Refuge Headquarters

One of the more interesting things Duncan shared with us is that the biologists now at the Malheur National Wildlife Refuge are fish experts, not bird experts. Most people who visit the Refuge come to see the birds and not to catch the fish, but there are some endangered fish in the system and the introduction of carp years ago threatens most of the native fish. Carp are so voracious and breed so rapidly that eliminating them may be impossible. Yet they do need to do what they can to keep them under control. A couple of the vendors at the festival were all about ways to reduce carp. One sells ground up carp as a fertilizer. There are efforts to create an industry around this. Duncan’s concern is that if they are successful at developing this industry, and then figure out a way to eliminate the carp, we will have a situation where the original goal of reducing the carp is at odds with a local industry that provides jobs.

Another interesting story is that when the Refuge was created in 1908 as a bird refuge for migrating water fowl, it only included the basin, but not any of the water sources. The farmers who opposed the refuge decided that their best response was to use up all the water before it reached the refuge. Fortunately for the birds, during the Great Depression, the land to the south, owned by Swift, was offered for sale and the government was able to purchase the land that controls the Donner und Blitzen River as it flows out of Steens Mountain thus providing the Refuge with a secure water source. It was only at this time that the Refuge began to flourish and have need for real biologists.

Ross's Geese Feeding in a field near Burns

Ross's Geese Taking Flight

The birding tour itself was rather low-key with long stops where Duncan would tell us all about the birds we were viewing. We did have one interesting moment while Duncan drove past a tree with a Great Horned Owl nest. While we sped past, Duncan explained that he does not like these owls because they feed on everything else in the neighborhood, even other smaller owls and hawks.

The Owl Tree

We did get some great views of the thousands of Ross’s Gulls on several fields and a few sandhill cranes that have moved into the area. At the Field Station, we watched large flocks of redwing and yellow-headed blackbirds. Duncan told us that they will find him in other parts of the station when they are out of food. They will also interrupt any conversations and body slam the windows to get his attention. Just like cats and dogs, wild birds can do a good job of training us if we let them. 

Sandhill Cranes